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Routes in Loch Vale Gorge
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Brown Smear? T WI5- R |
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Crystal Meth Left T,TR WI3 M3 PG13 |
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Free Strike Zone T WI5 M7+ |
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Hydrogen Bondage M6-7 R |
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Icy Chim T M5-6 R |
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L of Lochluster T WI4 M4 |
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Loch Ness Monster (AKA Crystal Meth) T WI4+ |
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Lochluster T WI3 |
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M5? hand crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a WI4+ M5 R |
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Mixed Emotions T,TR WI5- M5 |
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Mixed Left of Mo Flo (aka "Big Girl Pants") T WI4- M5 R |
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Mo' Flo' Than Go T WI3 |
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Pointlessness T M7 |
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R of Lochluster TR WI4- |
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Replicant (unnamed) TR M6 |
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Rock & Ice (aka Lumberjack) T WI5+ M6+ R |
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Rock, Wood, Ice T WI5- R |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, 90 ft (27 m) |
| FA: | unknown somebody with a sense of humor |
| Page Views: | 1,941 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Leo Paik on Jan 13, 2005 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
This is not the actual name for the route, however, it is not clear what the name of this route is. It is an obvious line which has been done for years during wet winters. It is listed in B. Gillett's guide, RMNP High Peaks (topo p. 249), as 'interesting possible route starting on log.' Well, in good conditions like Jan, 2005, it is. Toproping is probably preferable, as leading this would probably be a bit of a serious proposition as little protection is available until you are past the crux.
Find this route on the right side of the Loch Vale Gorge's ice area. Hike up the trail as for Lochluster, Gorge Yourself, and Mixed Feelings. When you get to the climbs, go right, find a log lying against the cliff. There you go.
To set this up for a TR, lead one of the easier climbs to the left and set up a TR off trees or hike around to the right to the ledge above the climb, rappel to the ledge. Sling some trees.
Balance up the sticky, low-angle log. Find a balancy crux at the transition from log to rock to ice that is very dependent upon exact ice conditions. Continue up near vertical ice to the top. It is probably 70 feet or less. Note, the traverse to the 2 bolt anchor to rap off to the left can be a bit exposed.
Remember Alex's words, the best climber is the one who is having the most fun. Hee Haw!
Sadly, it sounds like the log is no longer leaning against the rock....
Find this route on the right side of the Loch Vale Gorge's ice area. Hike up the trail as for Lochluster, Gorge Yourself, and Mixed Feelings. When you get to the climbs, go right, find a log lying against the cliff. There you go.
To set this up for a TR, lead one of the easier climbs to the left and set up a TR off trees or hike around to the right to the ledge above the climb, rappel to the ledge. Sling some trees.
Balance up the sticky, low-angle log. Find a balancy crux at the transition from log to rock to ice that is very dependent upon exact ice conditions. Continue up near vertical ice to the top. It is probably 70 feet or less. Note, the traverse to the 2 bolt anchor to rap off to the left can be a bit exposed.
Remember Alex's words, the best climber is the one who is having the most fun. Hee Haw!
Sadly, it sounds like the log is no longer leaning against the rock....
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