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Elevation: 6,212 ft
GPS: 39.57124, -107.29179
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 73,467 total · 298/month
Shared By: Bryan Gall on Jan 16, 2004 · Updates
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

No Name, a side canyon off of Glenwood Canyon, offers a number of single pitch granite cracks in an easy to access yet spectacular setting. A North-South running canyon, it is possible to chase the sun or shade by alternating between the east and west side of the canyon. Because of the availability of sunshine or shade, No Name is climbable spring, summer, and fall. No Name is comprised of the same Pre-Cambrian granite found in the center of Glenwood. The closest comparable rock is found in the Black Canyon. With a strong traditional ethic, No Name is a great place to begin trad leading or to hone your skills on its harder cracks. Layton Kor is said to have originally ascended many of the lines here. The only bolts to be found here are for top anchors. Some route information can be found in Dave Pegg's guide Western Sloper.

Getting There Suggest change

No Name Canyon can be accessed from the No Name exit off I-70 in Glenwood Canyon. It is the first exit east of Glenwood Springs. Once you turn off I-70, head north (away from the river) approximitely a half a mile until the road dead ends at the Jess Weaver trailhead. Park in the designated trailhead parking or on the road. Please don't block the parking for private homes. Walk up the trail (actually at this point the trail is a dirt road for utility access to Glenwood Spring's water supply) a little more than a quarter of a mile.

The east side climbs can be accessed directly off of the road before crossing No Name Creek. Cross the creek and walk back down canyon to access the west side climbs.

45 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at No Name Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2 5+
 4
Boulder Traverse
Boulder
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 25
Second Dihedral
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 45
Jungle Book (aka Graduation Crack)
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 28
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cracks
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 24
Electric Butterfly
Trad
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 19
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad)
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 35
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 21
Sumac
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 8
Courage
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
 6
Left Side of Gray Face
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 8
Thin Crack Variation
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 18
Lone Pine Tree Direct
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 26
Lightning Bolt Crack aka The Sickle
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 12
The Pink Face
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X
 4
Lone Pine Tree Right
Trad, TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Boulder Traverse No Name Canyon Boulde…
 4
V2 5+ Boulder
Second Dihedral E Side > Pink Face area
 25
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Jungle Book (aka Graduation… E Side > Gray Face area
 45
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Twin Cracks aka Railroad Cr… W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
 28
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Electric Butterfly E Side > Bridge area
 24
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Poison Ivy? (Garden Salad) W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
 19
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Unnamed aka The Ironing Board E Side > Gray Face area
 35
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Sumac W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
 21
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Courage W Side > Jumbled Buttress
 8
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Trad
Left Side of Gray Face E Side > Gray Face area
 6
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Trad
Thin Crack Variation E Side > Gray Face area
 8
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Lone Pine Tree Direct E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall
 18
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Lightning Bolt Crack aka Th… W Side > Poison Ivy Wall
 26
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
The Pink Face E Side > Pink Face area
 12
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Lone Pine Tree Right E Side > Lone Pine Tree Wall
 4
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c X Trad, TR
More Classic Climbs in No Name Canyon »

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