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Elevation: 9,426 ft
GPS: 39.6042, -105.9481
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Jun 20, 2002
Admins: Joey Chicharrones, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

Description Suggest change

With the blistering summer setting in, the search for a cool shady to spot to climb rises up in the agenda, and Keystone offers one good solution to the relentless heat in the Front Range. While Keystone is not a great "destination spot" overall, it does offer a reasonable range of sport climbs at 10,000 feet elevation and as cool as one is likely to find one hour from Denver. The crags at Keystone are South facing but get good shade for part of the day nonetheless. The rock is alpine granite, quite solid overall, and bolted sport climbs range from 5.9/5.10 to middle 5.12. 

Several years ago all of the old anchors and tree belays were replaced by double bolt lowering stations. More recently many anchors at the more popular crags have been replaced with mussy hooks. N.B.: if you top rope, do it through your own draws. All of the routes on the main crags can be done with a 60 meter rope, and while the bulk of the climbing consists of bolted sport routes, there are some cracks also available. The hump up the hill is not too strenuous and when combined with the scenic venue is well worth a day's visit. There are at least a couple of routes with enough character that they should not be missed.

Getting There Suggest change

The majority of the Keystone Crags lie just a couple of miles East of Keystone (the town) on the South flank of Porcupine Peak. The most expedient approach is to drive to Dillon and take US Hwy 6 East to Keystone. After the last shops in town, continue East - as though you were headed to A-Basin. Before the road begins to go uphill towards A-Basin, make a right at the fork onto CO 5. Stay on CO 5 for approximately 1.5 miles; if you come to the FR260 fork, then you have gone too far. and park in a dirt pullout .

On the left side of the road right after the Keystone Powerline Lot, there will be a short embankment at the pullout and room for about a dozen cars. This pullout services Haus, Porcupine, Alpenglow, and the Hummingbird area.

About 1/4 mile past this pullout, there is a small shoulder on the right marked by a yellow "No Camping" sign as well as an old timey barrel. This services Zuma and Morning Glory. 

164 Total Climbs

Route Finder - Best Climbs for YOU!

Location: Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V5 6C
 14
The Refrigerator
Boulder
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 132
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now
Sport, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 65
Not So Hostile Krainzover
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 116
Lichen This
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 12
Pull Up A Drill
Sport 3 pitches
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 47
Not Lichen This
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 88
Hostile Krainzover
Sport
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 50
Little Haus
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 18
The Chockstone Arete
Sport
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 108
The Spine
Sport, TR
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
The Thrill
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 70
Crystal Ball
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 8
Sky Pilot
Sport
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
The Ol' Ball and Chain
Trad, Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 10
Macho Picasso
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Refrigerator Hummingbird Bou… > Oasis Boulder Area > Refrigerator Boulder
 14
V5 6C Boulder
Feet Do Not Fail Me Now Haus Rock
 132
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport, TR
Not So Hostile Krainzover Haus Rock
 65
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Lichen This Haus Rock
 116
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Pull Up A Drill Porcupine Rock
 12
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport 3 pitches
Not Lichen This Haus Rock
 47
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Hostile Krainzover Haus Rock
 88
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Little Haus Haus Rock
 50
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
The Chockstone Arete Alpenglow Wall
 18
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
The Spine Haus Rock
 108
5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport, TR
The Thrill Porcupine Rock
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Crystal Ball Haus Rock
 70
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Sky Pilot Haus Rock
 8
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
The Ol' Ball and Chain Haus Rock
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Trad, Sport
Macho Picasso Haus Rock
 10
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
More Classic Climbs in Keystone a.k.a. Montezuma »

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