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Sandstone Overcast
5.8 YDS 5b French 16 Ewbanks VI- UIAA 15 ZA HVS 4c British C1
Avg: 2.1 from 9
votes
Routes in Solar Slab - Lower Tier
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Beulah's Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Beulah's Book T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Certain Air T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Corona T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Dubious Flirtations T 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Frieda's Flake T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Horndog T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Johnny Vegas T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Marble Madness T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Pamphlet, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Sandstone Overcast T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Shake, Rattle, and Roll T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Solar Flare T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Solar Slab Gully T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Some fingercrack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Some handcrack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Tan Line T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Walking on Sunshine T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 550 ft (167 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | FRA: Larry DeAngelo, John Wilder FFA: A. Kline, Dec 2008 |
| Page Views: | 2,838 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Orphaned User on Jan 22, 2005 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet.
Details
HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).
Description
This route is something that Larry had been eyeing for a while, well, he had mostly been eyeing the giant roof just up and left from the top of Pitch 2 of Johnny Vegas. Now all we had to do was find a way up there. Larry had heard of a route between Johnny Vegas and Beulah's Book that may offer passage to the route- which it did, with a slight variation.
Pitch 1: Start in a right facing dihedral about 50 or 60' left of Johnny Vegas. Head up this, passing a bolt and eventually arriving at the first belay for Johnny Vegas. From here, continue up to a large ledge about 20' up and belay. 5.8, 185'
Pitch 2: In the middle of the ledge there is a crack system heading straight up. Follow this until it starts to arch to the left, then step right and go straight up the face, aiming for where the roof above is at its smallest. Belay just above the roof at a stance. 5.8, 150'
Pitch 3: The aid pitch. Head up somewhat easy ground to the base of the overhang. Climb up a couple of moves and then aid through the rest, making a somewhat exposed move at the lip of the roof. Creative gear allows for an anchor right at the lip to prevent rope drag. 5.8 C1, 50'.
This pitch goes free at 5.12a/b using small cams!
Pitch 4: Step to the right and head up and past the bolted station at the top of P3 of Johnny Vegas. Belay at the bolts or boulders above. 5.4, 150'.
Variation: If you're not into the aid climbing thing, you can traverse left under the roof and belay there, then continue to the top. This goes at 5.8+ or 5.9 for a couple of moves.
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