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All Locations >
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Quail Springs Area
> White Cliffs of…
> White Cliffs of Dover…
Make or Break Flake
5.10b YDS 6a+ French 19 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 2.3 from 28
votes
Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
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Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Card Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Clucker, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Human Be-In T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quest for Fire T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stone Hinge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Westways TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Dan Dingle, Chris Carpenter and Guy Wordsall, May 1977 |
| Page Views: | 3,036 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | C Miller on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A strenuous start (crux) in a right-facing flare (fingers/thin hands in the back) gives way to good hand jams with marginal feet as you gain the start of the flake proper, which takes a jagged line up the face before cutting left below the top (#4 Camlaot or equivalent is useful). Continue up the face past a single bolt (5.10-) via thin edges and delicate smears to the top. You'll want to save some gear to 3" for the anchor; descent is via the gully to the right.
Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.
Fun climbing combined with two very distinct and disparate cruxes, all on great rock, make this a very worthwhile route to do when in the area. Two stars out of five.
Location
This unique climb is the left-most route at the White Cliffs Of Dover proper, and climbs a flake to face just left of Quest for Fire.
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