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California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Hidden Valley Area
> Real Hidden Valley
> Locomotion Rock
Grain Dance
5.10c/d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2.2 from 34
votes
Routes in Locomotion Rock
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Edam vs Gouda T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Edom vs Moab T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Grain Dance TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Gunks West T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Hhecht T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Jump Back Loretta T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Jumping Jehosephat T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Leaping Leaner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Lumping Fat Jennie T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Slip and Slide TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Snnfchtt T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Wilderness of Edom T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | TR, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Bob Gaines, 1987 |
| Page Views: | 1,767 total · 7/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Mar 22, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
At the far left (north) end of the west face of Locomotion Rock there are two obvious, slightly left-leaning hand cracks that go from near the ground to the top of the rock. Grain Dance is a TR problem between Jumping Jehosephat (the left crack) and Leaping Leaner (the right crack).
Follow a rounded and slightly offset crack/seam up and left to a blank section in the face. Friction up through the crux to reach a second seam system, just up and right of the first. The movement is fun and will likely increase your trust in Joshua Tree friction climbing.
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