Type: Trad, Aid, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
FA: Steve "Crusher' Bartlett, Strappo Hughes 4/27/2004
Page Views: 953 total · 4/month
Shared By: Steve Bartlett on Apr 26, 2004
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


2 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

The tower is located a half-mile south of Planet X, near the Viewfinder Towers, and a few miles north of Hanksville, just east of Highway 24. At the south end of the cliff-band behind Planet X, hike a couple hundred yards east under the cliffs, and the tower is pretty obvious. A solid one-star choss classic.

Career Opportunities 115', 5.9R, A3

Our route starts from the saddle under the east side of the tower. It ascends the main central crack system, with a deviation to avoid a potentially detachable car-sized block.We found the climb more challenging than it appeared. The cracks are mostly flared and tight. A bouldery start (spot?) leads to a precarious pin placement, followed by devious and varied aiding.

1. Teeter up a 5.9 sandy slab and place a pin when you can (there are excellent opportunities for careering off these first moves). Aid up for twenty feet until under a badly parked Cadillac. Veer left and up here, then angle back right until you rejoin the main central crack system safely above the Cadillac. (It looks much easier to go direct up the left side of this car, but we were not convinced it would stay put). Continue up the main crack (easier) to a final mantel (best to not have too much rope drag) onto the crusty ledge just below the summit blob. Belay here from two bolts. Both bolts are pretty good; one is 1/2", the other 3/8", both are four inches long. 100', 5.9R, A3.

2. Kick steps around the west side, and onto the summit. 15', 5.4.

Protection Suggest change

Gear: 6 Birdbeaks, 4 Toucans, 3 Bugaboos/KBs, 4 LAs, Selection of nuts from RPs to 1-inch. Three each cam from Green Alien (~1/2") to 3.0-inch. One each cam 3.5-inch to #5 Camalot

Photos

loading