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> O Crags (Three Finger…
The Gordian Knot
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British C1
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
Routes in O Crags (Three Finger Canyon)
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1000' of Fun T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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1200' of more Fun T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Blockbuster. T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Cat Walk. T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Cat's Me-ow., The T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Chad, Brad, & Brock S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Comedy of Errors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Crack, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Curiosity Killed The Cat T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Curiosity Killed the Rat T,S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b |
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Diagon Alley T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Fall Not T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Gordian Knot, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Hollow Men, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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IME T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Knights-Errant T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Lotto Balls S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Ms.Taken T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Necropolis T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Pegasus T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Perhaps Not T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1 |
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Planetary Alignment T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Rat Catcher T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Rat in the Hat T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Rat Trap T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Reptilian Curiosity T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c R |
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Sprogg's Day Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Team 500 T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Top Hat on the Rat. T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b C1- |
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Tread Lightly. T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Tres Amigos T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Union Pacific S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Wilting Flower, The T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Xerophyte 5.8 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Zenith T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Ziggurat 5.11 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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| Type: | Trad, Aid, 530 ft (161 m), 5 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Paul Ross, Layne Potter, 4/13/04 |
| Page Views: | 1,505 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Paul Ross on Apr 12, 2004 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
The Gordian Knot. III 5.9 C1.(5.11) 530'... This route is different to the surrounding slab routes, the climbing is more spire like in nature. Takes a corner system up one of the interior walls of Three Finger Canyon.From the trail head at the mouth of Three Fingers follow the left side of the rock face up round the corner to a steep blank looking wall with 5 bolts that leads to a corner with a thin crack..10 mins walk.
P1) Climb 8' to the first bolt and free and semi aid to the corner.( Parts of bolt ladder were freed 5.10+ a couple very difficult moves remain... Now all free 5.11+).The groove is thin to start ,continue to double anchors. 100'5.9 C1
P2) Follow wide crack to bulge, over bulge then right into corner . Easier climbing above leads to double anchors. 100'5.9.
P3)Straight up nice stemming corner and crack to bolt anchors on the right. 60' 5.7+.
P4) Traverse up a groove on the left to a ledge . A steep friable wall leads into an easy grove to a massive ledge ,block belay. 80' 5.7R (Rap anchors are located about 40' on the edge up to the right).Walk 250' right along the ledge to below the corner.
P5) Do not up the easy looking corner but traverse up the slabs to the left passing a pine tree .Just passed this climb up to another groove , then around the corner to a groove that leads to the summit.A 3.5 cam can be use for an anchor. 190'.5.4........
Descent. The rap anchors are located about 30' above along the rim on a flat section.A 180' rap to the big ledge, then scramble down to anchors above pitch 4 . Continue straight down the route. Paul Ross Layne Potter.. 13/4/04
P1) Climb 8' to the first bolt and free and semi aid to the corner.( Parts of bolt ladder were freed 5.10+ a couple very difficult moves remain... Now all free 5.11+).The groove is thin to start ,continue to double anchors. 100'5.9 C1
P2) Follow wide crack to bulge, over bulge then right into corner . Easier climbing above leads to double anchors. 100'5.9.
P3)Straight up nice stemming corner and crack to bolt anchors on the right. 60' 5.7+.
P4) Traverse up a groove on the left to a ledge . A steep friable wall leads into an easy grove to a massive ledge ,block belay. 80' 5.7R (Rap anchors are located about 40' on the edge up to the right).Walk 250' right along the ledge to below the corner.
P5) Do not up the easy looking corner but traverse up the slabs to the left passing a pine tree .Just passed this climb up to another groove , then around the corner to a groove that leads to the summit.A 3.5 cam can be use for an anchor. 190'.5.4........
Descent. The rap anchors are located about 30' above along the rim on a flat section.A 180' rap to the big ledge, then scramble down to anchors above pitch 4 . Continue straight down the route. Paul Ross Layne Potter.. 13/4/04
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