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Planet X, via the route Problicom Motion
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British A2+
Avg: 2 from 3
votes
Routes in Viewfinder Towers
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Bensass T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Booty Tower - South Face T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C0 |
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Cartman Tower - Wined and Dined T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c C1 |
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Dirty Devil Tower- South Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Formation: Castle Ardbeg. Route: The Whiskey Tour T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A2 |
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Johnny Hanksville of Mars T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Meat Log T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13 |
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Planet X, via the route Problicom Motion 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2+ |
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Power Chords T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1-2 |
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Prairie Dog S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Princess Bong T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 |
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South Face - Meat Log T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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South Side T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Strummer T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3 |
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Unknown - Brigham Butte T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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| Type: | Aid, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | Steve Bartlett, solo, December 2003 |
| Page Views: | 1,873 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Steve Bartlett on Dec 31, 2004 |
| Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Planet X is located a few miles north of Hanksville, on the east side of the road, a half-mile south of the Viewfinder Towers pullout. It is a nice free-standing formation. Approaching from north or south, it looks like a pyramid, but is very thin viewed edge on.
The climbing is thought-provoking Fisher-Tower-style aiding on a fine-grained Entrada sandstone. It follows a series of mostly splitter cracks, in mostly "good" rock, to the summit. The climbing is a lot of fun; some tricky placements, yet regular bomber pieces. The ambience is pleasant; a roadside location, yet with a quaint backwoods feel. So maybe more or less worthy of two stars. The first ascent was spread over two afternoons, but they sure seem to go quick in mid-December.
The route starts in the middle of the north face. The pitch meanders; watch out for rope drag. The two belay/rappel bolts are 4" x 1/2" Rawls.
1. Follow a bulging crack angling up and left to a ledge, from where a thinner crack gains a rotten band, fifty feet up. Step right to another good crack, which leads to a higher rotten band. Continue to better rock, and tension right to a ledge and a final crack leading to the two-bolt rappel/belay station (100', A2+).2. Step high, then throw a length of rope around the summit block. Tie this off, and belly up onto the summit (10', 5.5).Descent: Downclimb to the belay. Rappel 110' down the north face.
The climbing is thought-provoking Fisher-Tower-style aiding on a fine-grained Entrada sandstone. It follows a series of mostly splitter cracks, in mostly "good" rock, to the summit. The climbing is a lot of fun; some tricky placements, yet regular bomber pieces. The ambience is pleasant; a roadside location, yet with a quaint backwoods feel. So maybe more or less worthy of two stars. The first ascent was spread over two afternoons, but they sure seem to go quick in mid-December.
The route starts in the middle of the north face. The pitch meanders; watch out for rope drag. The two belay/rappel bolts are 4" x 1/2" Rawls.
1. Follow a bulging crack angling up and left to a ledge, from where a thinner crack gains a rotten band, fifty feet up. Step right to another good crack, which leads to a higher rotten band. Continue to better rock, and tension right to a ledge and a final crack leading to the two-bolt rappel/belay station (100', A2+).2. Step high, then throw a length of rope around the summit block. Tie this off, and belly up onto the summit (10', 5.5).Descent: Downclimb to the belay. Rappel 110' down the north face.
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