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McCarthy's North Face
5.11a YDS 6c French 22 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 22 ZA E3 5c British
Avg: 3.9 from 49
votes
Routes in North Face & Northwest Corner
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Call Evita 911 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Doldrums T C2+ |
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Four Play T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Friend of the Devil 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A3- |
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Klondike T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Leaping Lizards T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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McCarthy's North Face T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Mystic and the Mulchers T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Neverlasting T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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No Kiss for Dog Lips T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Psychic Turbulance T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Sleight of Hand T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Spiney Norman T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Whine and Bruises T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade III |
| FA: | FA Jim McCarthy and John Rupley 8/1957; FFA: Dennis Horning, Frank Sanders 5/1978 |
| Page Views: | 8,636 total · 31/month |
| Shared By: | Mark M. on Aug 11, 2001 · Updates |
| Admins: | Peter Gram, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: June Voluntary Climbing Closure and Seasonal Raptor Closure
Details
VOLUNTARY JUNE CLIMBING CLOSURE
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
The National Park Service asks that climbers choose not to climb the Tower during the month of June. The June voluntary climbing closure was selected as part of the Devils Tower Climbing Management Plan by a working group that included two climber organizations, two American Indian organizations, and other agency and local government representatives.
Climbers are strongly encouraged to consider enjoying the many other climbing options available in northeast Wyoming and the Black Hills area of South Dakota, during the month of June.
Details: nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Climbing MGMT Plan nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/…
Rock climbing routes on the East and Northeast Faces of Devils Tower summit will be temporarily closed to protect nesting Peregrine and Prairie Falcons.
Description
This is one of the all time classic routes on the tower. Find it by heading up the North Face/ NW corner approach. When you get to the base of the tower look to your right for a large left facing corner that starts low angle and gets steeper and has a lardge roof aboiut 200 feet up. This is a few cracks to the right of the Everlasting column.
P1. Head up the low angle rock in the corner and belay from mostly fixed gear on a sloping ledge directly underneath the roof. This pitch is 5.8 and is long (~200 ft). Position your belayer as high as possible and be prepared for a bit of simul-climbing. You could rap with 2 ropes from here, but then you'd miss the real fun.
P2. Head out the right side of the roof in a finger crack with marginal feet and small stoppers for gear. Once you get past the roof follow the corner straight up with a mixed bag of thin crack, lieback, and face techniques until you hit the anchors. Make sure to look around and take in your position as it is truly spectacular. This pitch is shorter than the first, but I can't remember specifics because the climbing was so awesome.
2 double rope raps will put you back on the ground. It is possible to contiue up from here, but I haven't done it. Sorry.
P1. Head up the low angle rock in the corner and belay from mostly fixed gear on a sloping ledge directly underneath the roof. This pitch is 5.8 and is long (~200 ft). Position your belayer as high as possible and be prepared for a bit of simul-climbing. You could rap with 2 ropes from here, but then you'd miss the real fun.
P2. Head out the right side of the roof in a finger crack with marginal feet and small stoppers for gear. Once you get past the roof follow the corner straight up with a mixed bag of thin crack, lieback, and face techniques until you hit the anchors. Make sure to look around and take in your position as it is truly spectacular. This pitch is shorter than the first, but I can't remember specifics because the climbing was so awesome.
2 double rope raps will put you back on the ground. It is possible to contiue up from here, but I haven't done it. Sorry.
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