1000 LB Caboose
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Christian Prellwitz climbing '1000 LB Caboose' (v8...
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Start sitting on an assortment of interesting pockets. Move up and slight left through some of the coolest pockets around. Find some tiny crimps above and step up towards a small two finger crimp located in a vertical seam. Finish it off.
Avoid using the big foot (and hand holds) out left.
Located in the middle of the road side face, right of 'Leftover Lover' and left of 'Kick Start'. The unique starting pockets are fairly obvious.
A pad or two
By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Dec 14, 2012
Having climbed what I feel like is the 'natural' line, using a small crimp up and left (but avoiding the big feet out left), it's arguable that this line is easier than v8.
The stand start seems kind of pointless, especially given that the crux seems to be the top half.
Anyone else have any insight?
Dec 12, 2016
I thought it was pretty hard to use that crimp in the face, and that might constitute the grade, depending on what you do with your feet. It's not satisfying, but I think this one is kind of an eliminate, and if you found the v8 variation, you did the problem, and if you didn't you maybe found a slightly different line. I suspect that there is a way to climb this section of holds and make it v8, and I think you have to use that greasy crimp in the face and the two finger edge in the seam above to make it that way.