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(1) Old School T,S,TR 
(10) Grab Your Balls S,TR 
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(4) New School S,TR 
(5) Bowling Ball S,TR 
(6) Transfusion S,TR 
(7) Burning Balls S,TR 
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Crimp Fest S 
Do You Like Apples S 
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Unknown S,TR 

(10) Grab Your Balls 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Todd Damico, Tim Anderson 2001
Page Views: 1,650
Submitted By: truello on Nov 26, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (34)
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Leading on GYB at Breakneck Rocks.

Private Land MORE INFO >>>

Description 

A tricky start off the ground or easier if started from the rock to the right. Climb up easy ledges to a committing crux near the top.

A steady 5.7 climb sandwiched by two legit 5.9 cruxes, one at the bottom (from the ground) and one at the anchors. The ground start is particularly vulnerable to a sketchy PG13+ landing (more than a pad can cover), especially on lead without a stick-clipped first bolt, so people seem to skip it and come at it from the right instead. The hardest stretch is that portion coming up the face from the ground to the first clip, so it's probably a 5.9- (mostly 5.7ish climbing) without it.

Location 

#10 on topo

Protection 

3 bolts, double ring anchors.


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By Aeon Aki
Administrator
Dec 2, 2009

Follow this link for beta on how NOT to climb this route.
By Isaac C
Mar 12, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

A steady 5.7 climb sandwiched by two legit 5.9 cruxes, one at the bottom (from the ground) and one at the anchors. The ground start is particularly vulnerable to a sketchy PG13+ landing (more than a pad can cover), especially on lead without a stick-clipped first bolt, so people seem to skip it and come at it from the right instead. The hardest stretch is that portion coming up the face from the ground to the first clip, so it's probably a 5.9- (mostly 5.7ish climbing) without it.
By Andrew G
Oct 13, 2013
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Fun route. I didn't find the bottom to be particularly daunting; the holds are all good. Crux is definitely at the top and well protected.
By Conquistador of the Useless
Dec 12, 2015

I found the crux to be at the top and it is very well protected. Definitely a fun, easy route, with a couple hard moves on sloppers near the top. A ground fall before the first clip would be problematic. We started on the left and it was 5.7ish.