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1-Papillons

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1-Papillons Rock Climbing 


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Elevation: 7,220'
Location: 37.81363, -119.1084 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 231
Administrators: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: kenr on Aug 8, 2016
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BETA PHOTO: Left side of Rush main wall - sectors ... 1. Papil...

Description 

Left-most sector of the main wall of Rush. Faces WSW.
Left side is shorter but mostly steeper than vertical. Right side is taller and (as of 2016) has one 2-bolt anchor, but no intermediate bolts going up to it -- presumably intended as a
Trad lead route, but (as of August 2016) its difficulty and protection are unknown, and we're eager to learn its Name + FA history.

Top-Roping? Can access the top by scrambling up around the left (N) end, a bit exposed on sloping ramps.

Just as we recognize the June Lake Loop as a little visit to Switzerland, so we feel the featured granite of Rush as a taste of the famous granite of Chamonix Mont Blanc in France . . .
"Papillons" is for the Arete des Papillons, a fun popular 5.8-5.9 route on the Aiguille du Peigne -- located on the "front" (W) side of the Chamonix needles, overlooking the main valley. Easily reached as a single-day outing from the Plan d'Aiguille mid-station of the mechanical lift.
. ("papillons" is the French word for butterflies -- pronounced something like pah-pee-yohn).

warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber.

Getting There 

Follow the instructions on the Rush area description page to reach sector 7 Midi. Then turn Left and walk/scramble N about 700 feet (with some ups + steep downs) to reach this sector. (10-20 minutes)

Or at times of low water flow in Rush Creek, consider the "Alternate hiking/wading approach" described further down on the Rush area description page.

--> see Map

--> see Photo overview from NW

Climbing Season

For the June Lake Area area.

Weather station 4.6 miles from here

2 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',1],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',1],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For 1-Papillons

Lower Right Arete 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b  California : Sierra Eastside : ... : 1-Papillons
Interesting moves the whole way. Too bad it's not longer.Up the right side of the arete.warning: The rock in this sector has not been climbed much yet, and much of the rock is still breakable and loose -- so the belayer and other people should stand far away from underneath the climber....[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of 1-Papillons Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Papillons sector 1 of Rush area overview of routes...
BETA PHOTO: Papillons sector 1 of Rush area overview of routes...
Rock Climbing Photo: Papillons sector 1 of Rush area. overview of route...
BETA PHOTO: Papillons sector 1 of Rush area. overview of route...

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