Array ( [0] => 105708955 [1] => 105872225 [2] => 106520295 [3] => 106158274 [4] => 108955481 ) Rock Climbing Routes & Photos in 1. Left Side, WM: Kancamagus (Eastern)
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1. Left Side

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Birthday Brushings 5.7+ G / 5.6 PG-13 T 
Inspectrum T 
Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct T 
Pillars of Dickulese T 
Watermelon, The T 
What's Up Yankee?  T 
Wit's End "Without" (the branch) T 

1. Left Side Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.01938, -71.25702 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 478
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Robert Hall on May 9, 2014
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BETA PHOTO: Left End, Rainbow Some Climbs

Description 

Slab, similar to the mid-section, with several nice routes which are worthwhile finding once you've done the "classics" on the Perfect Wave and Mid-Section Areas.

Climbs on the "Left Side" that are listed in Webster and/or Handren's guidebook(s) but not here (yet) are:
Left to Right:
Pot of Gold 5.6 FA 1980
Treasure Hunt 5.9 FA 1975
Sol 5.9 FA 1991

Getting There 

If your destination is the LeftSide (as opposed to the "Height-of-Land" to the "Perfect Wave" sections which are accessed by the normal approach path)then there are several ways to approach.

Four ways to get there:

1) Recommended see "Topo - photo" of this approach, below Follow the normal approach to the Height-of-Land Area [description in that Area's section]. About 30-35 ft below the start of "Summer Breeze" or "Road to Lhasa" a path leads climber's-left (south) through the trees to a steepish, dirt-covered ledge system with a slabby drop-off below. [Photo] This ledge provides access to the climb "What's Up Yankee", BUT beyond that climb the ledge peters-out at a mossy slab. Taking care, make a 4-5 ft move down.[2017 Update - there is now a fixed rope in this area which facilitates the moves down the ramp and the 4-5 ft downclimb. See COMMENT on sketch-photo.] Walk climber's-left and up 25-35 ft to another ledge. The end of this ledge is the start of Lucky Charms. Birthday Brushings starts to the right.

If you are headed to "Pillars of Dickulese" stay lower and move to climber's left. Look for the bolt on P1. (photo with that climb's description)

Headed for "Watermellon" or "Whit's End" continue further left, then scramble up to the far left end of the large tree-and-dirt ledge. (photo below)


2) Probably the 2nd easiest way - A second way is to climb one of the standard climbs in the Mid-Section (or Height-of-Land) all the way to the trees, (e.g. Face Dances, Coloring Book, Dead Easy etc.) then walk climber's left along the top of the cliff. About 30-40 ft "inland" from the edge is the easiest walking; there's a faint path. You will come to the LARGE pine tree with rap slings (red 7mm, 2014) which is the top of "Pillars". Rap down with two ropes to the 5/16th-inch double bolt belay/rap station of "pillars", then double ropes to the ground.

A 2nd rap line is located 40-50 ft to climber's right (left, looking out) of the large pine. This is the top rap station for "Birthday Brushings" and is a smaller pine with a fixed anchor. Two raps with a single 70 meter rope reaches the base, and the mid-cliff station (2 bolts) is on a real ledge (as opposed to the station on "Pillars".) Be sure your rope is a full 70 meters for the 2nd rap, use doubled ropes, or extend the anchor with a sling! It is not known whether two, doubled 60m ropes would reach the base from the top anchor in a single rap.

3) Direct Approach from Fire Road NOT RECOMMENDED -ACTIVE LOGGING IN THE AREA as of May 2017 From all the way back at the Forest Logging Road (constructed in 2014), follow it beyond the normal turn-off to its end (past a smaller "pull off area" on the right) to where there's a HUGE, cleared "staging area". Starting at where the road first widens to become this cleared area, bushwhack through the woods at a compass setting of 0 / 360-degrees magnetic, i.e. exactly magnetic north. It's flat for a while and then climbs steeply to reach the far, far left end of the Rainbow. (10-15 min, a cairn and/or flagging may be encountered). Once you see the LOW-ANGLE, mossy slab on your left, move towards it and up along it going through "2 ft passage" between a VERY large pine on your right and the mossy slab on the left. [See photos of what you should see upon approaching the slab.]
The hiking now levels off. Walk along the base (reasonably clear as of 2013-14) passing by "Inspectrum" after about 250 feet. 50 ft further you'll come to the large corner and the start of the wide, dirt, tree-ledge. Stay straight ahead to get on the tree ledge and the starts of "Sol", "Watermelon" and "Wit's End", or descend diagonally to the right to the "base area" and the starts of "Pillars" and "Lucky Charms", etc.

4) Using the approach in Webster's guide NOT RECOMMENDED -ACTIVE LOGGING IN THE AREA as of May 2017 (and given in the "Getting There" section for Rainbow), stay on the path until just after crossing the small stream at the base of the final, steep section of "trail". Do not climb the steep slope on the normal approach path, but rather move left (south) In about 150 ft cross over the small watercourse coming from your left (sort of out of a cave) and continue another 150 ft, then start climbing on a rising diagonal upwards and to the left. If "on route" you should hit a patch of ferns, here climb more or less straight uphill (steeply) 5-10 minutes to the area at the base area around "Pillars".

Climbing Season

For the WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) area.

Weather station 6.9 miles from here

7 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',3],['5.7',2],['5.8',2],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For 1. Left Side
Rock Climbing Photo: On P1 of Lucky Charms. The 2nd piece is the neat h...

Lucky Charms & Lucky Charms Direct 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13  New Hampshire : WM: Kancamagus (Eastern) : ... : 1. Left Side
APPROACH: Follow directions towards Road to Lhasa, but cut across the woods to a descending ramp (passing start of What's Up Yankee's "ugly" corner) and make a tricky 4-5 ft descent down a slab, then hike up and left 20-25 ft gaining the ledge at the base of Birthday Brushings (and 25-30 ft left, the start of Lucky Charms) [See Topo of base area of this part of the cliff posted to Lucky Charms]START- On a ledge about 40 feet left of the black co...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of 1. Left Side Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking at the ledge from Height-of-Land area to L...
BETA PHOTO: Looking at the ledge from Height-of-Land area to L...
Rock Climbing Photo: "Topo-photo" of Approach 1 - The "s...
BETA PHOTO: "Topo-photo" of Approach 1 - The "s...
Rock Climbing Photo: Detail of Lucky Charms-to-"Yankee" area
BETA PHOTO: Detail of Lucky Charms-to-"Yankee" area
Rock Climbing Photo: If approaching LEFT-side directly from fire road, ...
BETA PHOTO: If approaching LEFT-side directly from fire road, ...
Rock Climbing Photo: If Approaching LEFT-Side directly from Fire Road.....
BETA PHOTO: If Approaching LEFT-Side directly from Fire Road.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Looking DOWN from the Height-of-Land area towards ...
BETA PHOTO: Looking DOWN from the Height-of-Land area towards ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the Tree Ledge
BETA PHOTO: Start of the Tree Ledge
Rock Climbing Photo: Photo taken just beyond the big pine tree on the a...
BETA PHOTO: Photo taken just beyond the big pine tree on the a...

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