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Bee Gorge North Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
14: Pingheng ("Balance") S 
1: Fushi: Pumice T 
21: Unnamed: ["From Choss to Stardom"] T 
2: Chayidian: "Kinda Poor" T 
3: Unnamed [“Sharp n’ Airy”] S 
4: Unnamed ["Smile for the Camera... in the Shadow of the Great Wall"/SftC" T,S 
5: Digua: "Sweet Potato" T,S 
7: Banzhang: "Squad Leader" S 

1: Fushi: Pumice 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A1-2

Type:  Trad, Aid, 2 pitches, 190'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a A1-2 [details]
FA: & 29579 & 28392 ,& 38472 & 26198
Season: Spring, Summer, Fall
Page Views: 67
Submitted By: RyderS on May 30, 2013

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Pitch 1: Ascends the face and crack system just to the right of “Smile for the Camera…” and the arête of “Sharp n’ Airy.” Trending up and vaguely left towards the anchor station for “Sweet Potato.” Once you pass the top bulge, cut right, cut towards lower angle terrain and the bushes. Most of the foliage isn’t burly enough for tree anchors, so put up a gear anchor.

Pitch 2: (Unconfirmed) Continue up the obvious crack to the top of the cliff.

Descent: You can rap down with 2 60m ropes from the top of the cliff, if you can locate a strong enough tree. A lot of the foliage atop the cliff is scrubby. Otherwise, bushwhack east (right) down to the entrance of the crag. Because of the second pitch rating and the infrequency of trad in China, don’t expect much in the way of guidance in walking down form the top of the cliff.


A full rack including nuts, tricams, 6-8 single-length runners, 2 double-length runners, and active pro/friends from red C3 up to #4 Camalot. It's China, so you always have to expect a surprise when it comes to climbing in a country where the sport is so new.

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