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09. Guide's Wall

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Alpine Spring T 
Beautiful Garbage T 
Common Ground T 
Cowboy Bebop S 
Crozier, The T 
Firecracker T 
Jerry's Corner T 
Kuller, The T 
Madam Butterfly T 
Million Muppet March, The S 
Mos Eisley T 
Real Folk Blues, The T 
Scarecrow T 
Sparkler T 
Tin Man T 
Treasure Island T 

09. Guide's Wall Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 44.23439, -69.07265 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 3,614
Administrators: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Ben Townsend on May 28, 2014
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Description 

Guide's Wall has short (30-60'), mostly moderate routes on sometimes fragile schist. It is southeast facing and shaded by trees, so it's often best in the fall after the leaves are down. It dries slowly. Because it is not yet included in the guidebook, it gets little traffic. All routes have bolted belay/rappel anchors.

Getting There 

Park at the Carriage Trail trailhead on Route 52, about a mile west of Camden. Follow the trail (an old road); take the left fork in about half a mile, where the right fork heads up Mount Battie. The trail will cross two small streams on wooden bridges, and then bend sharply right; a cairn just after the bend marks the climbers' trail on the left. Follow the climbers' trail up and left to the start of the left wall of a wide gully; this is the Guide's Wall. The total approach is about a mile of mostly flat walking and takes about 20 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.7 miles from here

16 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',7],['2 Stars',8],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',5],['5.8',3],['5.9',4],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 09. Guide's Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 09. Guide's Wall:
Treasure Island   5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   
Tin Man   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Scarecrow   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, 1 pitch, 30'   
Common Ground   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   
The Million Muppet March   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 50'   
Cowboy Bebop   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 09. Guide's Wall

Featured Route For 09. Guide's Wall
Rock Climbing Photo: Million Muppet March

The Million Muppet March 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  Maine : Camden Hills : 09. Guide's Wall
Start up a thin vertical crack system (optional gear placements), then climb straight up through an overhanging bulge on big holds. Continue up a slab (more optional gear placements) to an anchor set in the overhang at the top of the cliff. Probably the best route on the Guide's Wall....[more]   Browse More Classics in Maine

Photos of 09. Guide's Wall Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tin Man, Scarecrow and Sparkler - Guide's Wall, Ca...
Tin Man, Scarecrow and Sparkler - Guide's Wall, Ca...

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