REI Community
07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek and Granite Park

Select Area...
Basin Mountain 
Checkered Demon 
Feather Peak 
Merriam Peak 
Mt. Emerson 
Mt. Humphreys 
Mt. Julius Caesar 
Mt. Tom 
Peak 12,563 

07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek and Granite Park Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 37.27073, -118.67329 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 35,269
Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Jul 30, 2015
Forecast:
Today

56° | 39°
Thursday

58° | 40°
Friday

61° | 41°
Saturday

61° | 41°
Sunday

63° | 42°
Monday

63° | 43°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Feather Peak early in the morning from Royce Lakes...

Description 

Essentially the mountains between Piute Pass and Pine Creek. Easily accessible from the east, not so much from the west. The big mountain in this region is Mount Humphreys, it's visible from many parts of the Sierra and is one of the more difficult peaks, being just shy of 14,000 feet. Humphreys Basin is a high tundra like environment, with grass and small lakes, farther north the Pine Creek basin curiously has peaks west of the main crest which are higher. Royce Lakes is a magical spot, surrounded by multiple high peaks, desolate, lifeless and yet hauntingly beautiful. Merriam Peak has recently seen multiple long rock climbs established on its north buttress.

While Mount Humphreys is obvious from Highway 395, the peaks west of Pine Creek remain aloof and mysterious, even as you hike up the Pine Creek Pass Trail, they show their shapes reluctantly. From Royce Col however, their true grandeur is revealed, and even west of those lies the highly desirable peak; Seven Gables.

When hiking up to Granite Park one cannot help but be impressed by the rocky peaks and pinnacles to the west - there are sure to be some climbs over there just waiting to be discovered.

Getting There 

From Hwy 168 west out of Bishop, the North Lake Trailhead splits off right, after passing through Aspendell. Plenty of parking usually at North Lake - although Piute Pass is also very popular in the summer months. The Piute Pass trail leads into Humphreys Basin a good camp spot for climbs on the west side of Mount Humphreys.

Pine Creek Trailhead can be reach by driving west off Hwy 395 through Rovanna and up to a rugged parking area south of the Tungsten Mill. The trailhead accesses Pine Creek Pass, Royce Lakes and through Granite Park to Italy Pass, plus it's advisable to use this trail to access the peaks west of Merriam, Royce and Feather, like Seven Gables. An old road is followed until the Pine Creek Lake Basin is reached.

White Mountain Ranger Station in Bishop is a good spot to pick up your permit, if you're coming from the south.

Permits
For the eastern approaches are available here.

Climbing Season



Weather station 4.8 miles from here

24 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',17],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',15],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',5],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek and Granite Park

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek and Granite Park:
Feather Couloir (North Couloir)   AI2     Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 700'   Feather Peak
Southwest Slope and Northwest Face   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   Mt. Humphreys
Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route)   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, Grade II   Mt. Emerson
East Arete   5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c     Trad, Alpine, Grade III   Mt. Humphreys
Direct North Buttress   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1000'   Merriam Peak
The Flying Buttress   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 800'   Merriam Peak
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek and Granite Park

Featured Route For 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek and Granite Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Lisa on one of the many gendarmes on the Emerson r...

Southeast Face (aka the Waterfall Route) 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c  California : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Emerson
Short approach for a fun alpine route on solid rock with varied climbing. Short 5.4 crux. Note that the chimney may be wet in early season or if there is significant rainfall during otherwise drier months. The route is water polished, so be prepared.RouteClimb the 5.4 crack. If the chimney is too wet there you can climb the face to the right of a second chimney, which is just to the right of the normal route. The chimney is blocked with a large chockstone at which point you can ...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek and Granite Park Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: The NE view of Seven Gables Peak
The NE view of Seven Gables Peak
Rock Climbing Photo: fun ridge climbing
fun ridge climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: More Hall of the Mountain Gods.
More Hall of the Mountain Gods.
Rock Climbing Photo: Hall of the Mountain Gods. Merriam Peak from Middl...
Hall of the Mountain Gods. Merriam Peak from Middl...
Rock Climbing Photo: Profile of Mt. Humphreys and Hutchinson Route take...
Profile of Mt. Humphreys and Hutchinson Route take...
Rock Climbing Photo: The Southwest Face of Mt. Humphreys.
BETA PHOTO: The Southwest Face of Mt. Humphreys.
Rock Climbing Photo: Alpine wonderland!
Alpine wonderland!
Rock Climbing Photo: North Lake frozen in winter.
North Lake frozen in winter.
Rock Climbing Photo: Italy Pass Trail on the way to Granite Park
Italy Pass Trail on the way to Granite Park
Rock Climbing Photo: Glacier Divide from Humphreys Basin.
Glacier Divide from Humphreys Basin.
Rock Climbing Photo: Humphreys Basin seen from the top of the South Cou...
Humphreys Basin seen from the top of the South Cou...

Comments on 07 - Humphreys Basin, Pine Creek and Granite Park Add Comment
Show which comments
- none yet -

Mountain Project

The Definitive Climbing Resource

MTB Project

Next Generation MTB Trail Maps

Powder Project

Backcountry Ski Maps & Secret Stashes
FREE Stickers · Gyms · RSS · School of Rock · Contact · About