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05W - Easy Gully Area

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Easy Gully T 
Grand Confusion T 
Grand Illusion T 
Poster Child T 

05W - Easy Gully Area Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.557, -72.79771 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 4,439
Administrators: Luc-514, Kris Fiore, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Luc-514 on Oct 17, 2014
Forecast:
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BETA PHOTO: Easy Gully. Orange - Black Sunshine Yellow - Domi...

Seasonal Raptor Closures for access issues: please review cragvt.org

Description 

From Left to Right:

Easy Gully, WI1-2: Obvious easy snow gully far left
Black Sunshine, WI3+/4: First flow right of Easy Gully, starts halfway up EG.
Dominatrix, II, M6 WI4+: Starts at the base of EG. Bottom is mixed.
French Tickler, M6 A0 WI4: Another rare former. Mixed start.
Scream Queen, M5 WI4+: Rarely in ice conditions, 30 feet right of Dominatrix.
Grand Illusion, WI4+: Starts right of the center buttress at bolts
Three Sheets, II, WI4
Grand Contusion, WI3+
Poster Child, WI4/4+ M4: Farthest right climb. 500 feet right and downhill from Grand Illusion. Short mixed section.

800+ Feet right of Easy Gully:
Grand Confusion, WI3+: From a text description it may sound like Grand Illiusion. This really isn't a part of Easy Gully, it's a 10-minute hike north of Easy Gully.

Getting There 

Road distances: 1.2 miles from Jeffersonville closure, 1.8 miles from Stowe closure.

Follow the narrow snow gully behind the stone hut and move up and left before Grand Confusion.
or
Leave road 100 feet north of the high point, past a huge boulder 50 feet in the woods, and follow the slide path up.

From the hut expect 30 minutes to the base of the gully.

Climbing Season

For the Smugglers Notch Ice climbing area.

Weather station 2.0 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',2],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 05W - Easy Gully Area

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 05W - Easy Gully Area:
Grand Illusion   WI4+     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 300'   
Poster Child   WI4 M4+     Trad, Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 125'   
Grand Confusion   WI3     Trad, Ice, 1 pitch, 200'   
Easy Gully   WI2-     Trad, Ice, 2 pitches, 400'   
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 05W - Easy Gully Area

Featured Route For 05W - Easy Gully Area
Rock Climbing Photo: Poster Child Not very inviting today

Poster Child WI4 M4+  Vermont : *Vermont Ice Climbing : ... : 05W - Easy Gully Area
Pitch 1 M1 R,Go up a cracked bulgy rock section right of Grand Contusion overhangs, no pro unless the ice is thick enough.Once on the ledge, head up and right to the headwall to an ice flow leading up to a right facing corner. There`s a drop at a large slanting rock at it's base.Pitch 2Head up the corner, there's a crack on the left with a pin in it to reach the ice flow when it doesn't reach low enough. When the ice doesn't come down enough to start on, the mixed start is...[more]   Browse More Classics in Vermont

Photos of 05W - Easy Gully Area Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Little thin ice to get up to the ledge of Three Sh...
BETA PHOTO: Little thin ice to get up to the ledge of Three Sh...
Rock Climbing Photo: Heading up Easy Gully, it's cold, it's damp, it's ...
BETA PHOTO: Heading up Easy Gully, it's cold, it's damp, it's ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Three Sheets? Grand Contusion?
BETA PHOTO: Three Sheets? Grand Contusion?

Comments on 05W - Easy Gully Area Add Comment
Show which comments
By Luc-514
Administrator
From: Montreal, Quebec
Jan 11, 2016
From Tfarr on NEIce
There's a spot for a .75 just above and left of the pin (about 3 feet left) under an up and right trending fold then pulling onto the ledge where there's some tat you can get a decent #2 above the tat and sling it long for the ledge until you gain the ice.

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