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03 - Lyell Group

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Mt. Lyell 

03 - Lyell Group Rock Climbing 

Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 12,168'
Location: 37.74393, -119.27257 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 2,346
Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Aug 5, 2015
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Lluis crossing the snowfield to the East Col notch...


The peaks in this area are in Yosemite National Park, but are definitely High Sierra peaks, Mount Lyell has the second largest glacier in the range on its north slope, and is a very worthy peak. This is a very beautiful area being just north of the Ritter Range, and has some diverse scenery because of this proximity - there are also views to Half Dome from the summit of Mount Lyell.

There are two approaches to this small group of peaks:

Easter approach takes a trail leaving Silver Lake on the June Lakes loops, passes a couple of large dammed lakes, and the JMT then cuts south to Marie Lakes.

The northern approach leaves Tuolumne Meadows and heads south along the JMT down the Lyell Canyon for about 10 miles aiming for camp sites at the base of the Lyell Glacier.

Both approaches are very scenic.

Getting There 

Eastern Approach
From the 395 north of Mammoth Lakes head west on the June Lake Loop Road (Hwy 158), follow this to the trailhead parking on the north side of Silver Lake - a cruel spot, as you now have to hike all the way back and up and over to Rush Creek.

Northern Approach
The trailhead is in Tuolumne Meadows along the Tioga Pass Road (Hwy 120), the JMT opposite Lembert Dome by Tuolumne Lodge.

For the northern approach are available here.

For the eastern approach are available here.

Climbing Season

Weather station 7.4 miles from here

1 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 03 - Lyell Group

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 03 - Lyell Group:
East Arete via South East Ridge   4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow     Snow, Alpine   Mt. Lyell
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 03 - Lyell Group

Featured Route For 03 - Lyell Group
Rock Climbing Photo: Parker and Chris on the knife-edge, Banner peak on...

East Arete via South East Ridge 4th 1 2 I 2 M 1b Mod. Snow  California : High Sierra : ... : Mt. Lyell
This route includes a very exciting ridge traverse. The East Arete proper can also be gained from either the glacier north of, or the cwm south of Lyell, both of which are considerably easier. There is also a way to reach the East Col from the ridge directly east (gained from Middle Marie Lake), this is also 4th class.Use Rush Creek trail.Route ApproachAfter wading across the outlet of Lower Marie Lake, hike easily along its west shore and over the creek that drains Middle Ma...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of 03 - Lyell Group Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Lyell and Maclure from the north.
Lyell and Maclure from the north.
Rock Climbing Photo: Parker, Tony and Lluis on the summit of Mount Lyel...
Parker, Tony and Lluis on the summit of Mount Lyel...
Rock Climbing Photo: View north from Lower Marie Lake.
View north from Lower Marie Lake.

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