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02 - The Sawtooth Ridge

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02 - The Sawtooth Ridge Rock Climbing 


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Location: 38.14895, -119.37709 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, M.Morley, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Adam Stackhouse, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Justin Johnsen on May 19, 2015
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The top 2/3 of Incredible Hulk, as seen near the e...

Description 

The Sawtooth Ridge area is the northern limit of the true High Sierra (it's in the Hoover Wilderness, which has been separated in MP for convenience). Nationally renowned for high country rock climbs being developed on Incredible Hulk, which appear in most recent years' American Alpine Journals, within sight of the popular hiking and climbing destination of Matterhorn Peak. Wild mountain play of all difficulties between may be had here.

Many start their treks from Horse Creek, or two other nearby trailheads , making Annett's Mono Village a popular, but not free, base of operations (see their wesbite for the latest details; it recently costed $10 to park at the marina there).

The Hoover Wilderness lies on the east slopes of Sawtooth Ridge, so overnight stays starting here require permits; see the website for information, or to reserve one in advance. Yosemite National Parks begins on the west slopes. Day trips into the protected areas from here are free.

Further reading:

A Climber’s Guide to the High Sierra (1954)

Getting There 

From the town of Bridgeport on highway 395, turn south onto Twin Lakes Road, which winds south and west into the Sierra Nevada. This ends at Anett's Mono Village Resort. From here, the exact trail to take depends on your destination.

Climbing Season



Weather station 11.1 miles from here

32 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',9],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',5],['1 Star',2],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',2],['5.7',1],['5.8',1],['5.9',1],['5.10',14],['5.11',5],['5.12',8],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge:
North Arete   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches   Matterhorn Peak
Beeline   5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, Alpine, 7 pitches, 1100'   Incredible Hulk
Red Dihedral (aka "Yggdrasil")   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1500'   Incredible Hulk
North Buttress (aka the Dragrace aka the Dragway)   5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 700'   Dragtooth
The Polish Route   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 900'   Incredible Hulk
Escape from Poland   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 400'   Incredible Hulk
East Face Direct   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   Little Slide Spires : Outguard Spire
Positive Vibrations   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1200'   Incredible Hulk
Sunspot Dihedral   5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1200'   Incredible Hulk
Astrohulk   5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1200'   Incredible Hulk
Tradewinds   5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1200'   Incredible Hulk
Lost in the Sun   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Trad, Alpine, 6 pitches, 700'   Incredible Hulk
The Venturi Effect   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Alpine, 10 pitches, 1200'   Incredible Hulk
Solar Burn   5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b     Trad, Alpine, 5 pitches, 600'   Incredible Hulk
Solar Flare   5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b     Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1000'   Incredible Hulk
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge

Featured Route For 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge
Rock Climbing Photo: Peter Pribik leading P1 of Outguard Spire's Direct...

East Face Direct 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b  CA : High Sierra : ... : Outguard Spire
This route is in Peter Croft's book, but I could not find anyone that had actually climbed it. There are rumors that it is dirty and loose. Peter rated it Good, but we found it better than good. This route is a lot of fun. There are multiple cruxes, with great climbing on every pitch. You will find a little bit of grit, and a little bit of loose stuff as you get higher up, but it is a very solid climb. The traversing nature of the climb does make it spooky in spots.P1 starts off the right ...[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Justin Dubois at the crux.
Justin Dubois at the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Second offwidth pitch.
Second offwidth pitch.
Rock Climbing Photo: Dragtooth and Matterhorn Peaks: the Sawtooth Range...
Dragtooth and Matterhorn Peaks: the Sawtooth Range...
Rock Climbing Photo: Blacksmith Peak in late afternoon light seen from ...
Blacksmith Peak in late afternoon light seen from ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Matterhorn Peak and Sawtooth Ridge. Photo by Blitz...
Matterhorn Peak and Sawtooth Ridge. Photo by Blitz...
Rock Climbing Photo: Finger Peaks from Doodad
Finger Peaks from Doodad

Comments on 02 - The Sawtooth Ridge Add Comment
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By Stas Yurkevich
From: San Francisco, California
Jul 5, 2016
The Buckeye Hot spring is short drive and highly recommended after climbing