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01 - Hoover Wilderness

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Flatiron Butte (Shangri La) 
North Peak 

01 - Hoover Wilderness Rock Climbing 

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Location: 38.27931, -119.45277 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Chris Owen, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Chris Owen on Feb 17, 2016
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Pulling over the roof into the awesome hand crack ...


Sharing a border with the Yosemite Wilderness along the High Sierra crest, the Hoover Wilderness encompasses the Sawtooth Ridge (separate in MP for convenience). The wilderness was first established as a "primitive area" in 1931 and was then protected as wilderness in the 1964 Wilderness Act.

The Hoover has relatively little timber throughout much of its steep terrain. Its forests are composed of scattered groves of hemlock, pine, aspen, and cottonwood. Diverse wildflowers spread over the intermittent meadows found here and black bears are common.

Hoover is home to the spectacular Flatiron Butte.

Getting There 

The Hoover is easily accessible from its southern end (along Highway 120 near Yosemite's Tioga Pass entrance station), as well as from various points along its eastern edge near Highway 395.

Wilderness Permits

A wilderness permit is required for all overnight trips into the Hoover Wilderness. Trail quotas are in effect from the last Friday in June through September 15.

Permits are issued by the Humboldt-Toiyabe National Forest and Inyo National Forest; the Inyo manages the southern tip accessible from Tioga Pass along Hwy 120, and Mono Lake, while the majority of the wilderness is managed by the Humbolt-Toiyabe. NOTE: Inyo also issues permits for trails to Lundy and Lakes Canyons accessed from the Mono Lake area. H-TNF issues permits for Twin Lakes and north.

If you plan to enter the wilderness through the Humboldt-Toiyabe, permits are available at the Bridgeport Visitor Center or by mail from March 1 through three weeks prior to the first day of you trip. The rest of the year permits are issued by self-registration at the Bridgeport ranger station - see sidebar for additional Forest Service website links.

For entering on the Inyo, permits are available here.

Climbing Season

For the High Sierra area.

Weather station 11.7 miles from here

4 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',0],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in 01 - Hoover Wilderness

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for 01 - Hoover Wilderness:
North Face North Couloir (right couloir)   AI2 Steep Snow     Ice, Snow, Alpine, 6 pitches, 800'   North Peak
Northwest Ridge   Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c     Trad, Alpine, 800'   North Peak
Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route   5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, Alpine, 12 pitches, 1500'   Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in 01 - Hoover Wilderness

Featured Route For 01 - Hoover Wilderness
Rock Climbing Photo: Pulling over the roof into the awesome hand crack ...

Brutus of Wyde Memorial Route 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c  California : High Sierra : ... : Flatiron Butte (Shangri La)
Pitch 1 - 5.7 or 5.8. 120 ft - More of an approach pitch. Starts with some some blocky crack climbing below the big obvious corner in the middle of the face. Gear belay below the prominent wide corner. Pitch 2 - 5.10a 80 ft - Nice hand and fist jamming grows into a wider crack before the terrain eases up. A bit burly. Gear belay in an alcove. Pitch 3 - 5.10a. 80 ft - Handjam and chimney up till you reach a roof with an old bolt. Pull the roof and belay from a bolted belay around the corner. Pitc...[more]   Browse More Classics in California

Photos of 01 - Hoover Wilderness Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: 24-September-2010: short last pitch to the couloir...
24-September-2010: short last pitch to the couloir...
Rock Climbing Photo: Stock picture of Flatiron Butte.
Stock picture of Flatiron Butte.
Rock Climbing Photo: Spring approach to North Couloir
Spring approach to North Couloir
Rock Climbing Photo: Hoover Overview Map
BETA PHOTO: Hoover Overview Map
Rock Climbing Photo: North Peak on the right, and Mt. Conness on the le...
BETA PHOTO: North Peak on the right, and Mt. Conness on the le...

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