Edelrid Mega Jul - yay or nay?

Paul Deger wrote:Any comments or experience to share on the Click Up? Now that I see how many devices there are with similar function to MJ, a broader discussion of pros/cons of all the variations. Nice to have a range of options for persons who not like GriGri and want tube-type device with added safety of enhanced braking.

It´s o.k but nothing more. The most powerful "assisted" braking of all of these kind of devices but like usual rope-sensitive. Lowering we found extremely awkward if there is too much friction in the system or not enough climber weight. Takes a considerable tug on the rope to activate so no use if you are expecting some kind of hands-free extra safety. My tester group prefered to go back to a GriGri, there are good reasons why it has been the gold standard for over 25 years.

Paul Deger wrote:Any comments or experience to share on the Click Up? Now that I see how many devices there are with similar function to MJ, a broader discussion of pros/cons of all the variations. Nice to have a range of options for persons who not like GriGri and want tube-type device with added safety of enhanced braking.

I have the alpine up which is the double rope version of the click-up. I love it because it locks passively yet feeds out slack exactly like a tuber. In order for it to lock up the biner has to travel up through a slot. There is a lip on said slot that requires a certain amount of weight for the biner to travel through the slot and lock up. The only complaint I have is that on really fat ropes it lowers very slowly at first.

Paul Deger wrote:Any comments or experience to share on the Click Up? Now that I see how many devices there are with similar function to MJ, a broader discussion of pros/cons of all the variations. Nice to have a range of options for persons who not like GriGri and want tube-type device with added safety of enhanced braking.

Heavy, overly complicated, and expensive. If you want a regular click-up buy a GriGri and enjoy all of the same benefits with less of the negatives. The GriGri does everything better than the Click-Up, including rap'ing.

Hey Jim I've got a question for you regarding the alpine up. A video in this thread posted by rgold showed the alpine up catching a fall with double ropes completely unattended. I'm guessing that this only works with doubles and won't lock unattended with a single rope. Is that the case, or does it lock on its own with a single rope.

Ray Pinpillage wrote: Heavy, overly complicated, and expensive. If you want a regular click-up buy a GriGri and enjoy all of the same benefits with less of the negatives. The GriGri does everything better than the Click-Up, including rap'ing.

Sure you're thinking about this? climbingtechnology.com/en/o…
It's 115gm (an ATC-G is 88gm), and relatively simple.

I wanted to like the mega jul but it didn't work out. I found it difficult to belay and difficult to rap. Love the mammut smart though.

r m wrote: Sure you're thinking about this? climbingtechnology.com/en/o… It's 115gm (an ATC-G is 88gm), and relatively simple.

Yeah. You need to weigh the carabiner too. The GriGri can use the lightest small locker whereas the click up depends on round stock.

Colonel Mustard wrote:I'll sell you mine for $20, lol! But seriously, I will. Used once to rap. Did not like. I found the device a little counter intuitive, per belay instructions from Edelrid and decided I'd rather double down on ATC style devices and the grigri instead of ingraining new habits. The rap was not fun. But people who love them seem to really love them and they sound great on paper, I'm probably the problem. So, yeah, $20, used once, I'll pay the shipping if it's domestic.

Someone take you up on that already?

JK- wrote: Someone take you up on that already?

Nurp. You in?

PM me.

eli poss wrote:Hey Jim I've got a question for you regarding the alpine up. A video in this thread posted by rgold showed the alpine up catching a fall with double ropes completely unattended. I'm guessing that this only works with doubles and won't lock unattended with a single rope. Is that the case, or does it lock on its own with a single rope.

I´ve no idea, I usually only test devices exactly as the manufacturers specify they are to be used.

Colonel Mustard wrote: Nurp. You in? PM me.

Done.

Once I got used to using it I found it a really good bit of kit. The only down side with mine is how quickly it left a black sheen on the ropes and left a black line down palm of my hand. I haven't tried it with half ropes yet.

Colonel Mustard wrote: Nurp. You in? PM me.

Received mega-Jul...

Will report back with my thoughts and feelings once I get to try it out a little bit. Hopefully next week.

After much research, I was hoping to get BD ATC Pilot in the new year, but now delayed until 2018. I ordered a Salewa Ergo - share my experience as well.

JK- wrote: Received mega-Jul... Will report back with my thoughts and feelings once I get to try it out a little bit. Hopefully next week.

Definitely use it more than once before you make up your mind. I really felt it had a learning curve and it took a few times using it before I felt like I figured out the knack for it.

I just had my first use of Mega Jul and Salewa Ergo. The MJ struck me as grabby with lowering and not as positive a passive break with a stiff gym rope. The Ergo felt smoother with lowering and quick/positive passive break. The only downside I experienced with the Ergo was tendency to pull the break side rope off the guide and across the metal edge while lowering. From its look, I think the BD ATC Pilot would remedy this tendency with a rolled edge less likely to cause rope wear.

ethnfrnk wrote:Does anyone have any thoughts as to the steel (Jul) on aluminum (biner) interfacing, and the rough surfaces on the belay biner it creates? I have concerns about that damaging my rope. I know I could buy a steel biner, but that adds another specialized piece of kit to my rack, and removes any weight savings of the Jul.

I think it can be an issue. For the last six months, I've been climbing indoors 2 or 3 times a week on lead. 50M Metolius Monster 10.2mm Gym Rope, BD GridLock and a Jul 2.

I noticed the middle of the rope was getting fuzzed while the outer ends were looking good. My theory is the Jul2 steel body wears the top of the carabiner. The gridlock is very squarish and when lowering, the rope runs across the scratched portions of the biner. It only wears into the top of the biner when there's little friction between the belayer and the climber. I contacted Edelrid and they recommended using HMS Strike FG or HMS Bruce Steel. Since, switching, the fuzzing seems to have not gotten worse. The top is narrower than the bottom on their HMS biners, which I think prevents the rope from running against the scratched portions.

Paul Deger wrote:I just had my first use of Mega Jul and Salewa Ergo. The MJ struck me as grabby with lowering and not as positive a passive break with a stiff gym rope. The Ergo felt smoother with lowering and quick/positive passive break. The only downside I experienced with the Ergo was tendency to pull the break side rope off the guide and across the metal edge while lowering. From its look, I think the BD ATC Pilot would remedy this tendency with a rolled edge less likely to cause rope wear.

The type of carabiner Edelrid recommends with the Megajul in it's user manual is an I-beam type. Specifically, "HMS Strike FG or HMS Strike Slider FG karabiner". Probably they grab the rope better than rounded bar stock HMS carabiners. If you are really concerned about rope wear on your HMS or belay carabiner with the Megajul, consider the Edelrid HMS Bruce Steel FG carabiner. It's the steel version of the HMS Strike FG and won't wear down. But it is a bit more than twice the weight.

dino74 wrote: I think it can be an issue. For the last six months, I've been climbing indoors 2 or 3 times a week on lead. 50M Metolius Monster 10.2mm Gym Rope, BD GridLock and a Jul 2. I noticed the middle of the rope was getting fuzzed while the outer ends were looking good. My theory is the Jul2 steel body wears the top of the carabiner. The gridlock is very squarish and when lowering, the rope runs across the scratched portions of the biner. It only wears into the top of the biner when there's little friction between the belayer and the climber. I contacted Edelrid and they recommended using HMS Strike FG or HMS Bruce Steel. Since, switching, the fuzzing seems to have not gotten worse. The top is narrower than the bottom on their HMS biners, which I think prevents the rope from running against the scratched portions.

I'm not convinced that is a specific type of wear from the Jul 2 or Megajul. I have a Black Diamond Gridlock Carabiner that I've only used with a Black Diamond ATC and ATC XP and the wear is very similar to what your picture shows. Although perhaps it happens faster with the Jul 2 and Megajul. I can't imagine the HMS Strike FG will wear any differently. The steel version (HMS Bruce Steel FG) won't wear at all.

anotherclimber wrote:I'm not convinced that is a specific type of wear from the Jul 2 or Megajul. I have a Black Diamond Gridlock Carabiner that I've only used with a Black Diamond ATC and ATC XP and the wear is very similar to what your picture shows. Although perhaps it happens faster with the Jul 2 and Megajul. I can't imagine the HMS Strike FG will wear any differently. The steel version (HMS Bruce Steel FG) won't wear at all.

Good catch! This biner was first used with a PETZL Verso so that explains the left and right patterns. The right wearing is deeper and completely smooth while the rest of the top edge is scuffed. On your Gridlock, is the top edge (Red areas in pic below) smooth or scuffed?



I'll try to take better pictures of the biner from a different angle when I get home.

dino74 wrote: Good catch! This biner was first used with a PETZL Verso so that explains the left and right patterns. The right wearing is deeper and completely smooth while the rest of the top edge is scuffed. On your Gridlock, is the top edge (Red areas in pic below) smooth or scuffed? I'll try to take better pictures of the biner from a different angle when I get home.

I think I see what you are saying now. No, the top of edge of my Gridlock is not scuffed, but I have the same two wear marks on the sides. So the bottom of your Jul 2 bangs into the top edge of the Gridlock carabiner?