Gannet Peak, Goose Neck Route conditions
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I'm looking at heading up Goose Neck the second week of August. It will be my first time in the area. Can anyone give me an idea of what conditions might be like ie. Snow coverage on the ridge, bergschrund/snow bridge. Any other advice? |
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The bergshrund will be quite open by then, possibly impassable except by the rock buttress to the right of the gully. The reports I've heard lately are saying that the bergshrund is open but the snow bridge is still in. It could be a crap shoot, especially that time of year. The window is June to end of July but you could get lucky. With the hot weather we've had lately I kinda doubt it. Hope this helps. |
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Thanks! That's not really what I was hoping to hear but was about what I expected. Can anyone speak to what the rock bypass is like? Protectability, difficulty (5.7 on mp?) and length before you get back on the snow? |
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Mike I've not been up there but the guide book says if it's collapsed then climb to the left 5.2 and bring a few nuts, then continue up the 4th class Ridge to its intersection with the crest. Having gained the crest, ascend the step above on East facing snow, then follow the ridge. |
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I've always climbed the right side of the gully but the left could be easier. A few hours after I posted that reply, I talked with a guy who said the snow bridge is still in good shape. Just be sure to get an early start and you'll be fine. |
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Just got back from Gannett, summiting on Wednesday. The bridge is in great shape, even with very soft snow. The mosquitoes weren't bad either this trip. |
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If you're camped in Titcomb Basin, you can usually head up the south face of Gannett to bypass the Goose neck. A bit of glacier travel between Gannett and the north side of Woodrow Wilson, then hop onto snow couloir, not too steep but some rockfall hazard. You gain ridgeline above Gooseneck. |
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The southeast couloir on Gannett is a great route, but one I would not recommend to a general mountaineer due to the icyness and rockfall danger, especially this time of year. It is a great way to bypass the gooseneck gully but this time of year is sustained 40-45 degree Ice with significant crevasse danger. From the reports I've heard, the gooseneck route should be good to go for the next couple of weeks and the bergshrund is passable with an early enough start. |
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I just saw that Melissa Arnot and Mountain Maddie just made it up there part of their 50 peaks challenge, today I believe, 27 hrs to and back, they were moving. |
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DavisMeschke, you still working at the shop there, I picked up a souvenir when I was there in July, lol.. Thanks again for all the updates.. Hoping to knock this one off in a few weeks. |
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I really appreciate all the info and suggestions. Thanks a ton everyone! |