The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...

I've been thinking we should add safety railings at the edge of all the cliffs at Devils Lake as well.

How to shorten webbing? Just keep it daisy chained.

jon jugenheimer wrote:How to shorten webbing? Just keep it daisy chained.

With the mid westerner's penchant for being overfed and under-experienced in an unforgiving sport... poor anchors can be thought of as natural selection at work.

Btw, DL has great pro, learn how to lead, it'll help keep the weight off...

Yes it does, which is why it is sad that this thread exists and is full of so many bad anchors!

On the topic of pro, what do you guys think about using cams at the lake? I've used 'em plenty of times for TR and lead and never had a problem, but I've also never taken a serious lead fall on one at the lake, either. A thread in the trad forum about cams pulling on slick rock has gotten me thinking about this.

Cams are fine. I whipped once and the cam rotated and the last two lobes in the crack stopped me.

Fallen a number of times on cams at the lake. Still talking about it.

Friend of mine was leading The Pooper in the fall and whipped at the crux onto a blue mastercam (alloy offset below it) and was totally fine. He went back up, placed a perfect blue alien in a horizontal above the mastercam, tried again and fell. This time all 3 pieces blew and he took a ~20 foot grounder onto his ass and back. Luckily he was totally fine and walked away but the blue alien that was his top piece was totalled. The lobe umbrellaed, was flat-spotted, and the triggerwires blew. We definitely are less stoked on placing cams at the lake these days.

Jake Stern wrote:Friend of mine was leading The Pooper in the fall and whipped at the crux onto a blue mastercam (alloy offset below it) and was totally fine. He went back up, placed a perfect blue alien in a horizontal above the mastercam, tried again and fell. This time all 3 pieces blew and he took a ~20 foot grounder onto his ass and back. Luckily he was totally fine and walked away but the blue alien that was his top piece was totalled. The lobe umbrellaed, was flat-spotted, and the triggerwires blew. We definitely are less stoked on placing cams at the lake these days.

Three pieces zippering? At the Lake or otherwise it sounds like that dude needs a lesson in placing gear.

Fallen, aided, and used for TR anchors all the time. No issues.

Jake Stern wrote:Friend of mine was leading The Pooper in the fall and whipped at the crux onto a blue mastercam (alloy offset below it) and was totally fine. He went back up, placed a perfect blue alien in a horizontal above the mastercam, tried again and fell. This time all 3 pieces blew and he took a ~20 foot grounder onto his ass and back. Luckily he was totally fine and walked away but the blue alien that was his top piece was totalled. The lobe umbrellaed, was flat-spotted, and the triggerwires blew. We definitely are less stoked on placing cams at the lake these days.

Hmm...not sure how the nature of the rock would lead to trashing a cam. Leading the pooper? Ugh. Why would you want to do that? Lol.

Kyle Harding wrote:The lake made Climbing Magazine's Unbelayvable section yesterday. climbing.com/news/unbelayva…

Wow- that's marvelous right there.

Nick Wilkes wrote: Noticed this yesterday while hiking with my boys.

Or that it involves using more material than you would need for a safe anchor...

No Pro? No Problem!

All pics from a friend this week out at the lake!

As big as a beer can is wide, and we are in business!

Use all the slings they say!