El cajon route between bright eyes and blue sky
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I was climbing bright eyes on thursday, when I wrapped from the second set of anchors below the roof I noticed a "decent" (so i thought) left facing corner to my right when looking at the wall. I didnt remember my guidebook but I remembered blue sky should be right in that area. Me and my partner decided try the route from the first anchors on bright eyes. Two bolts led me to the left facing corner which was dirty and somewhat overgrown. I got a few "OK" placements before the corner ended and I was stuck in a weird smooth run out, I managed to get a purple tcu in a small slanting crack to the right to give me a little confidence. From there I reached a bolt about 20 feet higher up (this bolt is 15 feet above the 2nd anchors on bright eyes and about 15 feet to the right of the anchors when looking at the wall). From here I was out of gear and would have been forced to mount the big roof above. I didnt know if there were anchors up there so I decided to lower off this bolt to bright eyes 2nd anchors and sacrifice a quick draw. Anyone have any clue what I climbed? seems like a variation of bright eyes going off of spiewaks newer photo however it still seems like I was way too far to the left of blue sky, thanks!..... two firewire quick draws still hanging from that bolt, six pack of micro beer to anyone who retrieves them before me. |
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If memory serves, that's the ramp that eventually leads to the start of Buffalo Brothers. Most just solo it. There might be some gear available, but it's not bad if you take your time and avoid grabbing the clumps of moss and dirt on your way up! |
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Did buffalo brothers on Sunday (next route on the left as you go up the ramp), and before blue sky, I didn't see your quick draws.. |
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I think you may have been on a recently added pitch to Bright Eyes, which is shared with the end of Open Air. See the description for Open Air. |
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This third pitch of bright eyes is a great addition. Doesn't sounds like that's where he was though. After leaving the second bolted belay for pitch three there's one bolt to clip before the corner/"roof" which I remember protecting with a number 3 C4 towardst feet and then there's one bolt after pulling the lip. Walk up to a wall past some grass for the last belay and rap station |
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No it was certainly an unmarked route between bright eyes and blue sky. I had already done the chimney and pitch one of bright eyes. From the bright eyes belay above the chimney i trended right following two bolts to a left facing corner, after the corner there is one bolt another 35 feet up, this bolt is not visible from the ramp LZPUP but it is located 20 feet above the second belay anchors on bright eyes. I did not trend to the left like yourself kevin the finish to the route wouldve drawn me to the right of bright eyes and closer to blue sky. I attached a picture with the route mapped out. The red lines is the portion I completed and the green line is where the route seemed to finish but where I stopped at the bolt up high. I marked all bolts i found on the route. |
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Ya very visible in that picture Kevin. Pretty sure |