snow pack in the high sierra

We are coming from salt lake city hoping to climb the incredible hulk and wondering about snow conditions. A snowy approach is not necessarily a deterant but does anyone know what the conditions are like on the rock in the high sierra right now?

I am headed to the Palisades this weekend to attempt Sun Ribbon Arete on Temple Crag. Assuming the weather doesn't screw it up I should have up to date conditions when I get back. If you remember feel free to pm me next week.

Thanks Randy, I neglected to mention we leave tomorrow... Has anyone been up there recently?

One BIG drainage over... Taken from the summit of Cathedral Peak, Tuolumne, May 19, 2012.

Bump! I'm headed out to Temple Crag in two weeks and checking on conditions in the high sierras....

A friend reported back from Monday:

Log jam crossing below Third Lake is passable. Bring crampons for the glacier below Temple as the snow was firm even later in the day. Otherwise good to go.

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Any updates on the Hulk approach would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Any updates on the hulk approach? Crampons? Axe?

Bump. Heading up to Pal Glacier on the 22nd for T-Bolt and Starlight, any recent updates. Thanks.

Davi Rivas wrote:Bump. Heading up to Pal Glacier on the 22nd for T-Bolt and Starlight, any recent updates. Thanks.

We climbed Sill & the North Pal. Camped at the glacier and this was the last week of May. There was no snow until Sam Mack meadow. The switchbacks up to the glacier had drifts that were annoying with heavy packs. Other than that the approach was no big deal. The u notch last 300' was pure ice and we passed the bergshrund on the right. The bridge was melting out pretty fast so who knows now that it's mid June.
Have fun!

Hulk info from Supertopo

"climbed Red Dihedral on sunday (6/10/12). small amount of mostly avoidable snow on the approach, bivy sites are in perfect condition with nice spring running nearby. The route up to the top of the ridge was dry, but the 3rd class traverse leading to the summit pitches (shared with PV) was the crux of the route - icy, snowy, loose, and the summit pitches had quite a bit of snow and some icy cracks. the descent is pretty clear. don't think you need an axe or crampons, just be prepared for a dicey few pitches to the summit, or rappel PV. A party climbed PV the same day as us, rapped the route, said it was in great shape. "

FYI

thanks, Luke!

A few more:

Conness (6/17)
Some sections of snow on the E Ridge (approach to W Ridge/SW Face routes), but no postholing even in the afternoon. Most patches could be avoided if desired. adding: mosquitoes were bad from Sawmill to ~12K ft.

Bear Creek Spire (6/20)
Soloed the E Ridge and descended the NE Ridge. Some snow still starting at Dade Lake. Minimal postholing in the afternoon until the immediate vicinity of Dade Lake.

Low snow year - in the Southern Palisades nothing below about 11200' as of first week of June.

Did the U-Notch on Saturday -

Belayed a fun short pitch of blue ice at the top, just because we brought a few screws.



The gray aerated stuff was very featured and easily soloed. Decent bergschrund crossing on the right. You could avoid much of the ice on crappy loose class 3-ish rock. Bring a v-thread tool & cord if you want to rap the ice instead (saw several, including one that had just about melted out).

My partner rapped most of the notch (I downclimbed instead). The rap stations in the chimney looked solid and recent .. I think the guide services have cleaned up a lot of that stuff.

Anyone know what condition Dana and north peak couloirs are in?

Dana is firm snow.

thanks!

Bear Creek Spire (6/29)
Soloed the N Arete with a late (9am) start, returning to car ~4pm. Again minimal postholing except near rock edges. No postholing near Dade this time.