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take someone lighter weight climbing, yer too much of a bitch to just take the guy climbing and have to post on this forum asking a question that has been asked many times before. seriously fuck you, take the guy climbing and delete this thread. if all goes well he'll get into it and lose weight or he won't and stay the same, either way who gives a fuck and you'll be fine belaying him. if you're worried about setting up a belay with the fear of getting pulled up set it up right. don't be a douchbag and ask for advice here on a public forum. again, fuck you for even asking.

seriously, fucking kill this thread before it goes to 5 pages of bullshit advice, tell the man to do what he said he'd do and leave it at that.
I'm tired of this PC bullshit.

Geez, it usually takes at least a page to get that hostile.

I've been toproping with someone who's significantly bigger than I am. He lifts me off the ground consistently when he falls. It's usually no biggie and I've never had a problem holding the fall, but I did once catch my ear on his gear loop as we passed midair (ouch).

I think in your case (my buddy isn't anywhere near twice my weight) to keep from being launched too far options 1 and 2 look good, and maybe option 3 (no experience with that one, probably no harm in testing out any of them close to the ground, though). As for stress and wear on your rope, you're toproping. Those things are designed to take lead falls (F=ma). It'll be fine, just don't let too much slack build up if you're really that worried.

As for the ATC in guide mode, again, it's toproping. 350# is like 1.5kn. It's totally stronger than that, scope it: mountainproject.com/v/atc-g… .

JesseT wrote:Geez, it usually takes at least a page to get that hostile.

shut the regular protocol down. belay him and deal with it. christ it'd save the mods a job or 7

Instead of a repeated question (something that happens every day), we now have a hostile member who has created three posts thAt breat the first rule of this forum. You are the one, Keenan, creating a problem for the mods, not johnnyrig.

Option 1 is probably the best course of action. Anchor to a heavy pack. Keep the rope super tight, take all the stretch out by jumping up and taking in rope before your friend begins to climb. Once the climber is a dozen feet off the ground the weight difference won't be an issue and you can let the rope be less tight. I'm about 150 and I've belayed plenty of people that were twice my weight w.o any anchor. You'll be fine.

Search the forums (particularly general climbing) if you find yourself in a situation, logically, other climbers must have found themselves in:

mountainproject.com/v/my-wi…

mountainproject.com/v/heavy…

mountainproject.com/v/ancho…

That said, no need to be nasty. Most people have repeated a thread at some point.

Also, you will change your approach, probably, over time. I used to always anchor as my husband is about twice my weight, but now I'm better at giving a soft catch and (I think) understand the benefits more, so I rarely anchor if I'm on the ground.

Also, read Freedom of the Hills. It will answer basically every question you can come up with. It is an amazing book all around.

DAMN keenan, no need to sugar coat it, tell us how you really feel.

Geez Keenan whats got your panties in a bunch. How is this question hurting you in any way.

Johnnyrig it shouldn't be that big of a deal. Yes you'll likely get lifted better to have an anchor if you can. Just don't make the mistake of ending up way back from the rock just to have one. If the anchor fails you'll get drug back to the rock. Yes I've seen it happen.

Best of luck.

Tim

To the mods maybe we need a FAQ section of the forums.

Keenan Waeschle wrote:seriously, fucking kill this thread before it goes to 5 pages of bullshit advice, tell the man to do what he said he'd do and leave it at that. I'm tired of this PC bullshit.

Keepin' it real, eh?

belaying solution for heavier climber
Tie off to a tree, or trad gear plugged into the ground, or sling some boulders, or build a trad anchor in the base of the wall against upwards directional force.

edit x2 can you drive your car to the base of the climb? I'd use that.

Word of advice -

If you need help cooking up a solution to your problem, you definitely need to improve your climbing skills drastically. Both with gear, ropes, knots, and systems.

Read a book, hire a guide, or find a mentor. Either way if you don't know something this basic you are a risk to yourself and your friends.

EDIT - Also, learn how to Z-Drag with the ATC-Guide for multipitch.

Have fun!

It looks like you got your answers. Keenan is a very angry young man.

johnnyrig wrote:...I guess I should have just asked instead how many fat-ass four hundred pounders you see at your local crags...

I've climbed with a big-giant-fucker:
- make sure his fucking harness fits
- use a chest harness to keep the fucker upright
- hang the fuck on when he falls

Some advice here...........

Don't put him on routes that are very steep. That's a lot of weight to pull up even if he's as strong as ARNOLD.

Do put him on routes where he can see his feet and see where he is standing. This will make it easier for him to understand how his footwork helps.

Slab climbing would be a good start of just get him on some easy fifth-class stuff where the holds are really obvious and keep him on a tight rope. I've stopped guys who weight over 300lbs and it is amazing how quickly that kind of force, even on a top rope can hurt if the belayer is not paying attention......Good Luck.

-sp wrote: I've climbed with a big-giant-fucker: - make sure his fucking harness fits - use a chest harness to keep the fucker upright - hang the fuck on when he falls

Wow. 4 F bombs in a short post like that is something only rarely seen around these parts. Nicely done.

just don't anchor yourself to a cactus
see this cautionary tale of belaying a 450 lbs man by John Long: Close Calls

Yarp wrote: Wow. 4 F bombs in a short post like that is something only rarely seen around these parts. Nicely done.

I believe Imight have been channeling Chopper Reid...

Cut Keenan some slack.

Lets, see, 11 hours ago was 1AM, so I'm guessing Keenan was drinking a wee bit much, and finding himself in Bozeman was naturally lacking female companionship and quite frustrated, so he did what any red-blooded Montanan would do: look for a fight.

I figured it out! It was so obvious I can't believe it took this long...

Just belay him from the top with your guide in guide mode in case you need to z-drag him. If you're setting a top rope you can chill at the anchor point right? So just top rope with you belaying from above, like you normally would your second.

Badda Bing, Badda Boom. Done.

top belay

wow keenan is an idiot

Copperhead wrote:Cut Keenan some slack. Lets, see, 11 hours ago was 1AM, so I'm guessing Keenan was drinking a wee bit much, and finding himself in Bozeman was naturally lacking female companionship and quite frustrated, so he did what any red-blooded Montanan would do: look for a fight.

I'm actually a full blooded washingtonian, but yes I had been doing a little drinking, and yes, I was without female companionship! I figured the best option was to post vulgar things attacking people asking questions on MP. No question was too dumb to escape my drunken wrath.

seriously though, pick up freedom of the hills or just put some of yer creative thinking skills to work and tie yourself to a tree or build a anchor. there is no need for another lame thread on MP with everyone weighing in on what they think the best way to solve this problem is. It has a single very simple answer that you already know.

until these boring threads go away I'll keep interjecting expletives to keep myself entertained. After all, there isn't much to do here in bozeman.