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Le Miroir d'Argentine
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Voie Orig inale de l'Y (The Original Route) T,S 
Papageno S 

Voie Originale de l'Y (The Original Route) 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, Alpine, 14 pitches, 1200', Grade III
Original:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: F. Delisle, Ch. Rathgeb and A. Moreillon (1926)
Page Views: 853
Submitted By: Michael Verdone on Jun 24, 2012

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Miroir d'Argentine

Description 

The Voie Originale de l'Y follows a path of least resistance up the large face of the Miroir d'Argentine. The route begins at the highest point of the grassy slope leading up to the face. The first three pitches climb up broken ledges before gaining the lower angle slab. The next set of four pitches climb straight up easy, but fun, slab before beginning a series of of five pitches traversing across the face. The final set of pitches are shared with the Direct Route.

The bottom part of the route climbs through several sections of poor rock, but the rock quality increases once you reach the slab. Helmets are mandatory because rockfall is common on the route. The approach trail is also prone to large rockfall later in the day, but it can be avoided by approaching the route to climbers right of the approach trail.

Location 

The Miroir d'Argentine is located past the town of Solalex in the canton of Vaud and is accessible by any 2wd vehicle.

Protection 

The route is bolted, but the spacing of the bolts can feel run out if the climb is at your limits of comfort. A single rack up to a #3 cam can add comfort, but gear placements are not always easy to find.


Photos of Voie Originale de l'Y (The Original Route) Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 3
Pitch 3
Rock Climbing Photo: Pitch 6
Pitch 6
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Topo

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