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The Malamute
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Quagmire Crack T 
The Wizard of Id T 
Agonal T 
Berrycup T 
Caboose T 
Canadian Compromise T 
Chasing Rainbows T 
Cider Crack T 
Clean Crack T 
Cling Peaches T 
Consolation T 
Crescent Crack T 
Curly S 
Fungus Razor T 
Grub Street T 
Hand Jive T 
High Mountain Woody T 
Jacob's Other Ladder T 
Larry S 
Moe S 
Neighbourhood Bully T 
Old Style T 
Overly Hanging Out T 
Pacing the Cage S 
Paul's Crack T 
Penguins in Bondage T 
Pinky Locks T 
Rosebud T 
Shallow End, The S 
Slap and Tickle T 
Sparky S 
Stefanie's Tears T 
Stone Cold T,S 
Trailer Arrêt 
Under the Mercy T 
Unsorted Routes:

The Wizard of Id 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, 100'
Original:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Dan Tate,Barry Hagen, 11/65 FFA : Peter Croft, Tami Knight, 1979
Page Views: 341
Submitted By: geoff georges on Oct 1, 2014

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fun stemming

Access issues at the Lower Malamute. MORE INFO >>>


This would be a classic if not so close to railroad, and if it were clean.
I think it may also be 10a, not too strenuous, just techy.
The right facing corner left of cedar trees dividing it from the more obvious crack of Hand Jive.Intimidating looking, but don't let the dirty start scare you off. The gear is tricky and a few technical moves make it exciting. It was damp and mossy, so avoid after a rain.


15 meters left of Hand Jive ( crack with the do not climb sign next to it) the Arete left of the corner has some bolts- Will Power. Pull up on Salal bushes to reach ledge with a bolt up left. We rapped back to the ground at the tracks with a 70 m. rope.


standard rack to 2". I used a tiny nut and cam right after the belay bolt,. There is a fixed pin near the rap anchor.
I keep seeing that a standard rack is .5 - #3 camalot, for me it is blue, green, yellow, red Alien the the .5 and up. and a set of nuts.

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