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The Rattler - Cobblers Bench 

YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 9 pitches, 1100', Grade IV
Original:  YDS: 5.11b French: 6c Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 23 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Tony Lewis, Richard Shore, Andrew Soleman Oct 2016 GU
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 623
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Oct 18, 2016

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Route overlay topo

Description 

The Rattler takes a serpentine line up the stunning Southeast Buttress of the Cobblers Bench, linking discontinuous crack systems with slithering slabs. The rock is highly featured and speckled with horizontal dikes and black diorite knobs. There are just two fixed anchors on the route and most belays are natural. This route was climbed onsight from the ground-up; hand-drilled from stances with no hooks, hangs or gimmicks. It is well protected at the hardest spots, but probably still deserving of a PG or R rating. Expect to find some real moves a ways out from your last 1/4" bolt. Due to the traversing nature of many pitches, it is suggested that both leader and follower be confident slab climbers.

P1) Up the obvious flake/crack that widens. Gear belay from a tiny stance just below the roofs. 5.8 35M
P2) Face climb rightwards below the roofs passing 3 bolts. Turn the last big roof near its right end and step left to a bolt and then the crack. Continue up to a stance and belay from gear at the base of the next crack. 5.9 35M
P3) Up the RF corner to where it thins and becomes dirty. Traverse right to a thin crack and easy runout face leads to a nice ledge. Gear anchor at the base of the ramp. 5.8 30M
P4) LF lieback ramp leads to a friction traverse left past 3 bolts. Gain a RF flake, then step down to a stance and belay from gear. 5.10 30M. P3&4 can link with a 60M rope, barely.
P5) Sustained face climbing past 6 bolts with a crux at the finish – thin slab or a dynamic move to gain a small black knob. Bolted anchor atop a slanting dike. 5.11b 30M
P6) Move right off the belay, then leftwards following the weakness up the face past 4 bolts. Gain a wafer-thin flake and crank softly up to a bolted anchor. 5.10+ 30M. P5&6 can link with a 60M rope, barely.
P7) A rightward traversing pitch past 2 bolts leads to a small ledge and gear anchor. 5.8 30M
P8) Take the short crack to some knobby face at its end, aiming for a golden vertical dike feature. Pass a bolt on the golden “tufa” and follow easing terrain up a long ramp/corner to a mega-comfy belay ledge. 5.9 Full 60M
P9) Easy class 5 with a few 5.7 moves wandering up the path of least resistance (and least bushes) to the summit. 5.7 50M

Location 

Approach as for the Mayfield Canyon Towers, but go around the right side of Bedrock Tower and then up and left (south) into the gully behind. The Cobblers Bench formation will be on your right. Allow 2.5 hours.

Descent: Scramble/downclimb to the West from the summit into the gully between the Cobblers Bench and Super Grey Pinnacle. One or two single rope rappels are required near the bottom.

Protection 

1x Blue TCU, 2x Yellow TCU to #3 Camalot, half set of stoppers. 60 or 70M rope


Photos of The Rattler - Cobblers Bench Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Lewis on P5, just after the crux
Tony Lewis on P5, just after the crux
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Lewis on the P4 friction traverse
Tony Lewis on the P4 friction traverse
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard scoping pitch 1........
Richard scoping pitch 1........
Rock Climbing Photo: Leading pitch 2...... Photo by Richard Shore
Leading pitch 2...... Photo by Richard Shore
Rock Climbing Photo: Topo
Topo
Rock Climbing Photo: Overview of the Cobblers Bench and Super Grey Pinn...
Overview of the Cobblers Bench and Super Grey Pinn...
Rock Climbing Photo: AS on the summit of the Cobblers Bench
AS on the summit of the Cobblers Bench
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony Lewis following P1
Tony Lewis following P1
Rock Climbing Photo: Andrew Soleman on P7
Andrew Soleman on P7
Rock Climbing Photo: Tony drilling on P6
Tony drilling on P6
Rock Climbing Photo: TL approaching the crux on P5
TL approaching the crux on P5
Rock Climbing Photo: TL on P3
TL on P3
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard at traverse, pitch 2
Richard at traverse, pitch 2
Rock Climbing Photo: RS toiling in the midday sun, P4. Pic:TL
RS toiling in the midday sun, P4. Pic:TL
Rock Climbing Photo: Richard continuing up pitch 5.....
Richard continuing up pitch 5.....
Rock Climbing Photo: Alpenglow on the Cobblers Bench. The Rattler tackl...
Alpenglow on the Cobblers Bench. The Rattler tackl...

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