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Patience T 
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Patience 

YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 400'
Original:  YDS: 5.12 French: 7b+ Ewbanks: 27 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Josh Gross, Stanely Vrba, Madeleine Sorkin
New Route: Yes
Season: All
Page Views: 465
Submitted By: Josh Gross on Oct 23, 2016

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2)
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Pitch 2

RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek MORE INFO >>>

Description 

P1 11+ Climbs beautiful left facing black varnished corner. First crux is encountered about 40ft up. Stemming and trickery on uniquely featured rock !

P2 12 Crux pitch , everything from desert OW entrance exam to power stemming and Red Rocks style movement. More than one way to do the crux! Airy !

P3 11- Boulder problem off the belay , to fun 5.10 hands splitter on the right side of the corner ! Funky move to nice belay ledge!

P4 12 Climb right off belay eventually making your way up and left to a unique left facing nose feature. Power layback , pinch , stem up this left facing nose ! Finish heading up and right on airy and pumpy terrain.

P5 Low 5th class scramble up and left to the rim.

This route would not have come together without the trust and climbing skills of Lynn Sanson, Madeleine Sorkin, Adam Baxter, Dustin Dyer, Ralph Ferrara.

Location 

"Patience" climbs the spectacular left facing corner in the center of the "Beach View" wall.
Rap the route , 2 60m ropes 2 raps. After down climbing pitch 5.

Protection 

Small to medium wires.
00, 0 - 1 Camalot (1)
2- 3 Camalot (2)
4, 5 Camalot (1)
10 draws 4 long


Photos of Patience Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Stanley on Pitch 1
Stanley on Pitch 1
Rock Climbing Photo: P 1
P 1
Rock Climbing Photo: P2
P2
Rock Climbing Photo: P1 corner
P1 corner
Rock Climbing Photo: "Patience" climbs left facing clean corn...
"Patience" climbs left facing clean corn...

Comments on Patience Add Comment
Show which comments
By Roy Suggett
Oct 23, 2016

Well done! Thanks for the hard work.
By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Nov 21, 2016
rating: 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

A great route with a very tenuous crux pitch. Some of the rock is a little fragile but overall the quality is very high when compared to other routes in the area and it should clean up with more traffic. Make sure to bring your edging shoes as there is very little jamming and all the hard sections are bolt protected face/corner climbing. Nice work Josh!

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