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Green Slabs (South Face)
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Mother Ps ycho's Little Darlins T,S 
Banana Cake (Buttress) T 
Blade Runner S,TR 
David and Goliath T,S 
Fathers Dazed T 
Green Banana Jam T 
Here and Gone T 
Josh and Dave's Route T 
Jump for Joyce T 
Krack a Tack T,TR 
Missing in Action T 
Monkey Business T,TR 
My Left Foot T,TR 
No Stars T,S 
Not KIA T 
Rock Candy T 
Samson and Dalieback T 
So-o-o Swe-e-et T 
Toy Roof T,S 
Unknown 5.8 T 
Wits End T 
Wrench Warfare T 
Yurt Monkey T 

Mother Psycho's Little Darlins 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

Type:  Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Original:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: 1980's
Season: any (not mid summer)
Page Views: 1,068
Submitted By: CALEB ANDERSON on Oct 22, 2011

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (5)
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Good look at the whole line.


Ascends the steep, very thin face to the right of "Green Banana Jam". Climb on thin edges and thin side-pulls for 25' until you get a good rest, you'll want to throw a cam or two before pulling onto the upper headwall. Continue up through five bolts of amazing but technical face moves.


Easy to locate, just look up. It is the bolted line Right of Banana Jam Crack


Friends and quickdraws (7-bolts)

Photos of Mother Psycho's Little Darlins Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Superstar on the first thin section.
Superstar on the first thin section.
Rock Climbing Photo: Great place to take a first fall on gear (and hang...
Great place to take a first fall on gear (and hang...
Rock Climbing Photo: Derek, finishing the last crux.
Derek, finishing the last crux.

Comments on Mother Psycho's Little Darlins Add Comment
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Oct 22, 2011

Followed this today after Derek led it up. Wonderful movement throughout.
By Geir
From: Tucson, AZ
Oct 24, 2011

Wow guys! Nice work! :)
By Derek Anderson
From: Tucson,AZ
Nov 29, 2011

! Thanks Geir , Same goes to you on your recent FAs.
By Robert Flore
May 27, 2012
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Yeah, Derek and Caleb, congrats on getting up this one! Mother Psycho is a tough lead! About 1992 I watched two "elite level" french climbers thrash themselves into exhaustion before they finally got it.

Bob Flaugher and Bill Clinch put this one up in March of 1990. I think Scot Ayers did this one a few months later and gave it an 11+ rating, but I think 12a is closer. At least two stars, and I'd give it three myself.
By Jake Croft
From: Tucson, Az
Feb 11, 2014

This was my first 5.12 send, and incidentally first fall on gear back sometime in early 2013. Anyways I remember it being an awesome route, definitely worth doing
Also I vaguely remember the rope almost getting stuck after lowering off it so be careful as I think the anchors ontop of the ledge

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