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Middle Teton Cave Route 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b

Type:  Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches, 300', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 26 British: E5 6b Easy Snow [details]
FA: Greg Collins, Adam Freund
New Route: Yes
Season: Summer shade
Page Views: 1,709
Submitted By: Gee Double on Jul 1, 2015

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Middle Teton Cave Route


From the right to the left, follow roof crack system. 5.11 then 5.12b. 2nd pitch 5.8r


See photo. East face Middle Teton above Garnet Meadows


115 m. 2 pitches, 4 protection bolts, 2 bolt anchor, hand drilled, several fp's. Cams with rattly-hand size for end of crux pitch, small technical cams for the start, a 70m rope is recommended.

Photos of Middle Teton Cave Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Middle Teton Cave Route: 5.12b, 5.8 r
BETA PHOTO: Middle Teton Cave Route: 5.12b, 5.8 r
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting the crux.
Starting the crux.
Rock Climbing Photo: Near the break from the 5.11 to the 5.12
BETA PHOTO: Near the break from the 5.11 to the 5.12
Rock Climbing Photo: The last moves of crux pitch are very steep, and p...
The last moves of crux pitch are very steep, and p...

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By Gee Double
Aug 25, 2015

Caution, Danger! There is talk by Jenny Lake Rangers of removing protection from this route. Hazardous, inspect protection. If protection is removed from the Middle Teton Cave Route, then protection will be remove from popular GTNP routes with motorized installations. Sorry. Please climb this route; but don't mess with it.
By Gee Double
Oct 29, 2015

To the person or persons that says we used a motor to drill protection, you have committed slander, in court, purgury, both illegal.
By Gee Double
May 8, 2016

JLR Sep 2015
" is true no permit is needed for exploring unclimbed technical terrain in GRTE. Possibly further discussion could be good about new fixed anchors for unclimbed technical terrain. More details include, currently no process is in place for fixed anchor permitting in GRTE. Jenny Lake District staff are looking for input going forward with the new Directors Order #41, climbing section 7.2, that directs parks to come up with an approval process. An approval process could be on a case by case basis or a continued traditional approach to new routes with an approval given for occasional use. Getting your input would be very helpful, as was Hans's recent input. Keeping as it is now, local climbers self regulate fixed anchor use by hand drilling bolts and placing pitons as needed per local climbing ethic."

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