Lys Og Skygge.
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Another great route on Piannocracken, and other rated top 50 in the guidebook.
Scramble up the slab below the massive arch of Soria Moria, and find a small crack and flake system that allows access, via a left-leaning line, onto the face above. Climb that (awkward 5.9, crafty gear) to just below the right hand edge of a large roof on the arete to the left of the right-leaning arch.
Proper gear and sling-work will allow for minimal drag, but if you goof, you may be forced to do this line in 2 pitches (as described in the guidebook). Split left and traverse out left under the big roof to come out around its left side. The optional belay is here, but is not a great arrangement - skip this if possible (we did) and continue climbing. Trend up and right, now climbing on the left side of the arete, always within reach of it to it's end, and then up one of two crack options to the bolt and chain anchor.
This route stats up the wall as for Soria Moria, but rather than follow the massive arch of that route, it splits left under a roof and out onto the left side of the Arete, climbing just to the right of the line of Applecake Arette.
A rack to 3" plus lang slings.
By Björn Bamse Fröhlich
Mar 5, 2017
I really enjoyed this route. My first trad lead without a guide. We split the route into two parts, which was fine. Small nuts are useful for the crux (two small cracks early in the first pitch. Bring a long enough rope (double?) for the rap.