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Loco Re Loco 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
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Submitted By: nate post on Nov 30, 2016

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BETA PHOTO: Loco Re Loco

Description 

You start from a large boulder. Pull onto a short well bolted slab. Then cruise up a the crack with some laybacks and onto the large ledge. From the ledge pull through several powerful pockets on the vertical face not as hard as it looks as long as you don't mess up your hand sequence. The crux is up high. Some crimps to a hidden pocket just below the big hole in the wall, that birds clearly enjoy. Other than the bird crap coming out of the hole I thought this was an outstanding route. It has a local grade of 7a which would put it in the 11d range but unless a overlooked something at the crux I thought it felt 5.12ish.

Location 

well marked with blue paint. to the right of Peter Pan

Protection 

Draws


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