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Lenny's Route 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Original:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Lenny Nelson
Page Views: 1,785
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 20, 2003  with updates from jawshoeuh

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (23)
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BETA PHOTO: 2 Nice Little Crack. 3 Unknown Face. 4 Storm Mou...


Approach as per Nice Little Crack. This is the bolted face. Tricky start over the 1st roof, leads to edges and fun climbing. Midway you will find a bulge, friction over this avoiding the foot crack to the left. Finally, trick #3, pop over the top roof. And there... the anchors?.


2 bolts atop for the anchor, BEWARE one is suspect. Also, 7 draws for the route. You will also need a small set of medium gear for the upper roof.

Photos of Lenny's Route Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Rope hanging on route, only saw 6 bolts.
BETA PHOTO: Rope hanging on route, only saw 6 bolts.
Rock Climbing Photo: Pete on Lenny's Route (my vote for the route name ...
Pete on Lenny's Route (my vote for the route name ...

Comments on Lenny's Route Add Comment
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By kBobby Hanson
From: Spokane, WA
Apr 22, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

I climbed this in Fall 2001. The anchor at the top was pretty crappy. Look for a (better) third bolt up above the first two (one of which spins). I found a CTR ring up here on a tiny (2"x2") ledge. Weird.
By Harvey Miller
Jun 16, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Yeah, one of the anchors at the top is bad. A good option is to use the good anchor as a bolt, and then finish the climb by traversing to the left to the anchors at the top of Nice Little Crack. Its not very far. Belay your follower from the top, and then rap from those anchors.
By Walt Haas
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 28, 2007
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

IIRC Lenny Nelson told me a few years ago that he had bolted this route. Unfortunately I forgot the name he gave it :-( Nice route though.

With TR protection, you can climb the slightly more difficult face a few feet to climber's left of the bolts.
By tony tuttle
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 7, 2010
rating: 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c PG13

Climbed on 9/5/2010. I liked the crag, nice place to get away to on an otherwise crowded Storm Mountain Saturday. Nobody else ventured to these climbs.

The climb itself is pretty fun. Nothing too difficult, the crux for me was where the blocky holds disappear and there are a couple of smeary moves on rounded rock.

The roof was really fun to pull over as well but nothing too crazy.

The suspect bolt is still there. We backed up the anchor with a nut placed a little lower.

This place is worth the extra approach if you don't want to fight crowds.
By Daniel Winder
Aug 17, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13

Needlessly PG-13. The last bolt is way too low to prevent a ledge fall if you somehow blew it going over the roof.
By DrApnea
From: Wenatchee, WA
Apr 30, 2013
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Done in approach shoes. A fun line, no harder than 5.7, It really should be a trad climb though since nearly every bolt had a spot for pro within 3 feet of it if you had the right gear (Tricams, nuts, and mastercams).
By Andrew Gram
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Aug 31, 2015
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

OK route that would be very good with one more bolt at the roof. Definitely a candidate for rebolting - rusted stud bolts, most likely with mixed metals.

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