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* Ice and Mixed Climbing

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Ace of Spades Crag 
Arethusa Falls 
Bear Mountain (near Newfound Lake) 
Cannon Ice Climbs 
Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs 
Champney Falls 
Dixville Notch 
Echo Crag Ice Climbs 
Flume, The 
Frankenstein Ice Climbs 
Garfield Crag 
Greeley Ponds (Mad River Notch)  
Holts Ledge 
Ice and Mixed Bouldering 
Kinsman Notch 
Lower Baker Pond Ice Arena (Slander Crag) 
Mahoosuc Notch 
Mount Moosilauke 
Mount Washington & Presidentials (Adams, Jeff. etc) 
Mt Major 
Mt. Avalon 
Mt. Huntington (Ice)  
Mt. Lafayette 
Mt. Lincoln 
Mt. Lowell 
Mt. Tom  
Mt. Webster - Winter Ice & 
Mt. Willard (Ice)  
Mt. Willey 
Newfound Lake 
Oliverian Notch 
Painted Walls Ice Climbs 
Pawtuckaway 
Polar Caves (CLOSED) 
Rainbow Slabs - Winter Ice 
Rumney Ice Climbs 
Sandwich Notch Ice 
Stonehouse Pond 
Tenny Mountain 
Texaco Amphitheater 
Texaco Slab  
Trollville (Duckshead) 
West Rattlesnake Ice 
Whitehorse Ice Climbs 
Wilderness Woods  
Rest Day:
Nearby Mountain Bike Rides

Gardner's Trail
A rocky and technical singletrack. Near Littleton, New Hampshire
Page Hill Loop
An awesome climb to Page Hill on technical singletrack. Near Hill, New Hampshire
Saco River Trail
A very easy trail designed for mom, dad, and the kids. Near Bartlett, New Hampshire
Tent Boulder Trail
Awesome trail features make a great woods ride. Near North Conway, New Hampshire
High School Loop
Fast singletrack and forest roads with a long, fun descent. Near North Conway, New Hampshire
Mineral Site Trail
A fun singletrack descent on the lower section. Near North Conway, New Hampshire
From MP's sister site:

* Ice and Mixed Climbing Rock Climbing 


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Location: 44.03683, -71.119 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 294,313
Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Feb 1, 2008
Forecast:
Tonight

52°
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74° | 60°
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82° | 64°
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80° | 61°
You & This Area
Best climbs for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [2 people like this page.]
1st pitch of Repentance, March, 2005.

Description 

New Hampshire offers some of the best ice climbing in the lower-48. Maybe it's the fact that winters tend to be long and wet, or maybe it's the fact that summers tend to be short and humid and wet, but in winter, ice seems to form on every piece of exposed rock. Be it the road cuts on Interstate 93, the grungy summer sport climbs at Rumney, the moss-filled chimneys at Cathedral Ledge, or the shady reaches of Cannon Cliff, chances are each of these surfaces sports a worthwhile ice objective (except the road cut, which would be an illegal objective).

Most of the ice climbing activity in New Hampshire is focused around Frankenstein Cliff. Its easy access, proximity to North Conway, and numerous crag-style ice routes all assure that this ice destination will remain popular and crowded throughout the winter. Those looking for more of an adventure will certainly find it in the form of brutal cold and full-on conditions on Cannon Cliff, the premier alpine climbing setting in the Northeast. For the technical, demanding, multi-pitch and often mixed experience, look to the proud routes on Cathedral Ledge. Finally, for that quick ice-burn, check out Rumney for a bunch of shorter, often thin routes.

Mt. Washington, the highest point in New England and home of "the world's worst weather" offers both ice and alpine climbing in a serious, mountain setting. Despite it's modest height (by "out-west" standards), this mountain has brought about more than its share of tragedies.

Getting There 

Ice is everywhere in this state. View the individual pages for directions to your chosen destination.

Climbing Season



Weather station 1.2 miles from here

285 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',32],['3 Stars',130],['2 Stars',82],['1 Star',34],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',2],['5.8',1],['5.9',0],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in * Ice and Mixed Climbing

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for * Ice and Mixed Climbing:
Willey's Slide   WI2     Ice, 3 pitches, 700'   Mt. Willey
Left Hand Monkey Wrench   WI3     Ice, 1 pitch   Mt. Willard (Ice) : East Face - Lower
North End Pillars   WI3-4     Ice   Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
Damnation Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 1000'   Mount Washington & Presiden... : Huntington Ravine - Winter ...
Smear   WI3-4     Ice, 1 pitch   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
East Face Slab Right   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch   Mt. Willard (Ice) : East Face - Upper
The Penguin   WI4     Ice, 2 pitches   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Standard Route Area
Hobbit Couloir   WI4+     Ice, 200'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
The Cleft   WI2+     Ice, 2 pitches, 210'   Mt. Willard (Ice) : East Face - Upper
Repentance   WI5 M4-5     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 350'   Cathedral Ledge Ice Climbs
Pinnacle Gully   WI3     Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 500'   Mount Washington & Presiden... : Huntington Ravine - Winter ...
Odell's Gully   WI2-3     Ice, Alpine, 600'   Mount Washington & Presiden... : Huntington Ravine - Winter ...
Pegasus   WI3+     Ice, 200'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Chia   WI3+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Pegasus Rock Finish   WI3 M3     Mixed, Ice, 2 pitches, 250'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Amphitheater Area
Standard Route   WI3+     Ice, 2 pitches, 300'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Standard Route Area
Shoestring Gully   WI2     Ice, Alpine, 6 pitches   Mt. Webster - Winter Ice &
Dracula   WI4+     Ice, 1 pitch, 100'   Frankenstein Ice Climbs : Dropline Area
Hitchcock Gully   5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a WI3-     Ice, 2 pitches   Mt. Willard (Ice) : East Face - Lower
Black Dike   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b WI4-5 M3     Mixed, Ice, 3 pitches, 400'   Cannon Ice Climbs
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in * Ice and Mixed Climbing

Featured Route For * Ice and Mixed Climbing
Rock Climbing Photo: Sick Pup is in the center of this photograph. It a...

Sick Pup WI5-  New Hampshire : * Ice and Mixed Climbing : Garfield Crag
Climb steep ramp to pillar. Pillar starts wide and narrows so much that one leg ends up front pointing on rock stemming up crux. Very awkward and well protected but a little run out. Enter easy ramp when iced and not so easy when bare rock covered snow. This climb was originally soloed by top rope by me in 1985. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in New Hampshire

Photos of * Ice and Mixed Climbing Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Mt. Washington (from the West)
Mt. Washington (from the West)
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up "Smear" .... March 6, 2016
Starting up "Smear" .... March 6, 2016
Rock Climbing Photo: 1982 North Conway Mt Rescue team on Mt Washington ...
1982 North Conway Mt Rescue team on Mt Washington ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Ryan Barber on the traverse, pitch two of the Blac...
Ryan Barber on the traverse, pitch two of the Blac...
Rock Climbing Photo: Rumney ice
Rumney ice
Rock Climbing Photo: New Hampshire winters, we started when it was sunn...
New Hampshire winters, we started when it was sunn...
Rock Climbing Photo: Great Madness on Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch
Great Madness on Mt. Willard, Crawford Notch

Comments on * Ice and Mixed Climbing Add Comment
Show which comments
By Russ Keane
Oct 13, 2016
Ice Climbing is the most fun thing to do with your human existence on this earth.

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