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Eye of the Beholder T 
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Eye of the Beholder 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

Type:  Trad, 4 pitches, 500', Grade II
Original:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Monica Buhler, 2/10
New Route: Yes
Season: Great on cooler days
Page Views: 1,336
Submitted By: Jeff Scheuerell on Feb 20, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
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Further up the slab

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  • Description 

    As the name implies, beauty is in the eye of the beholder. This route climbs much better than it may at first appear. In fact the climbing is excellent. You may choose to do this route in 4,5, or 6 pitches. Doing it in 4 requires a 70m rope or simul climbing 15' on the first and a bit on the last. The route starts out with enjoyable climbing, 5.6, following broken rock and cracks to a bolted station about 75' up. Belay here or continue up a left facing corner. Move out right at the end of the corner and follow discontinuous cracks and seams to an A shaped roof. Climb the right side of the A into a finger crack that ends at a comfy bolted belay. Get your stoppers ready, the next pitch likes to eat up small to medium size nuts, preferably offsets. Don't miss the sideways nut placement out on the face 35 or so feet up. I also find a spot for a pink tricam at mid height. The pitch finishes with friction climbing past 3 bolts to a 2 bolt belay/rap station. At this point the crux is 5.9 at most and takes great protection. But the next 2 pitches are much harder with a few runout sections. The next pitch starts out with a short 5.11 section at the first bolt then gets much easier, though runout, passing three more bolts as you angle left to a 2 bolt anchor. The last pitch angles back right with several thin 5.10 moves, eventually ending at the last anchor on Stone Quest.


    This route is located between Farm Alarm and Cool Cliff 170(see Reid guide)


    Micro cams to # 2 Camalots with extra small to med stoppers(offsets nice)

    Photos of Eye of the Beholder Slideshow Add Photo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Nearing the anchor
    Nearing the anchor
    Rock Climbing Photo: Start of the 3rd Pitch if you link pitches 1&2
    Start of the 3rd Pitch if you link pitches 1&2
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike coming up
    Mike coming up
    Rock Climbing Photo: Here's a photo of a poorly drawn topo
    BETA PHOTO: Here's a photo of a poorly drawn topo
    Rock Climbing Photo: Mike on the third pitch of Eye of the Beholder
    Mike on the third pitch of Eye of the Beholder
    Rock Climbing Photo: Looking up from the first anchor(note the A shaped...
    Looking up from the first anchor(note the A shaped...

    Comments on Eye of the Beholder Add Comment
    Show which comments
    By Osprey Overhang
    From: ...
    Feb 28, 2010

    I ran a mini traction on the first pitch when the route was still being cleaned and set up. I was happy with the quality and it looked even better higher up. This was in the early winter '08.
    By Alexey
    From: San Jose
    Jan 24, 2011

    Climbed only first 3 pitches, did not have time to finish - short winter days. Linked p1,2 .
    On P3 I run out of small gear - take all you have from black to yellow aliens. Pitch 3 is more than 150 feet- I know for sure since my 80M rope was not sufficient to rappel. Very interesting climb
    By Sirius
    From: Oakland, CA
    Feb 28, 2011

    Noticed this line yesterday while rapping Stone Quest and peering over the arete. Looks like a lot of gear was left on the upper pitches, maybe someone had to bail because of wx? An intriguing line that I'll check out in the future.

    No FA info on this climb? Did you bolt this route, OP?

    By Yosemitesam
    Dec 17, 2015

    Climbed this route in 4 pitches with a 70m. I agree this is a fun route and climbs better than it looks. I thought the first 3 pitches were especially good. Pitches 4 and 5 are indeed much harder...a committing lead with decent runouts.
    Jeff Scheuerell, i noticed on that you gave some pretty high praise for a route called kats on a hot tin roof. Says it's at Parkline but there is no other info anywhere. You have any details?

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