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Member Since
Oct 22, 2020
Last Visit: 2 days ago
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Kero is in the Partner Finder
Best Times to Meet: Weekends. Weekdays occasionally possible with enough notice.
Likes Trad, Sport, Tr
Leads Follows
Trad 5.7 5.9
Sport 5.7 5.9
Ice WI4 WI6
Mixed M4 M5
Member of
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Ticks View All 107

WI5+
 23
Hydrophobia
Apr 5, 2023 · 4 pitches. Lead / Onsight. With J.C. I led P3 and soloed P1 approach ice. (This comment counts the approach ice as P1, and therefore the entire route as four pitches.) Stunning route in a stunning location. Relentlessly sustained with sections that leaned out, adding a sting to the climbing. Ice was in poor shape: very brittle and aerated. Whole climb was a fight. We had to swing multiple times on most steps to get solid pick placements. Many of our ice screw placements probably wouldn't have held a fall. Tons of spindrift on P4, making it very difficult to see. Combined with the long ski in/out, it was a tiring day, but very happy to have experienced this classic.
Ice 3 pitches
WI4-5
 67
Lower Weeping Wall
Mar 25, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. With J.C. Climbed Central Pillar this time. Led P1 and P3. Entire wall is degrading quickly. It was basically a pile of disintegrating snice. Water running on the far left and ride sides. P2 was in WI6 condition. Ridiculously sketchy ice. Thank goodness J.C. led it. There was a gong show on Left Hand with two parties that had extremely inexperienced leaders who were in way over their heads. They ran out of screws halfway through each pitch because they placed one every one/two meters. Each time, they would have their belayers lower them down so they could retrieve screws. Then they'd re-climb on top rope back to their last screw and continue. At each belay, they rested 15-20 minutes. It was laughable and appalling at the same time. Weeping Wall is neither a crag nor a place to hog up an entire section with poor etiquette and incompetence.
Ice 3 pitches
WI5-6
 20
Whiteman Falls
Mar 22, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. With the awesome Sarah Hueniken on her day off. Sarah kindly took the back seat and let me lead both pitches. Couldn't have asked for a better supporter, friend or coach. Right side was showering water, so we went up the left. On P2 (crux), after traversing around onto the front of the pillar, the climb became a total showerfest from above. Gloves completely soaked through, tool handles glazed up, water ran over my jacket, hair got wet and froze, glasses completely fogged up. Ice became increasingly slushy. Picks and crampons would unexpectedly slough out at times. Doubt any of the screws would have held. About 12 meters from the top, decided to call it. Ice was too insecure, and it was getting stupid risky. Miraculously found a square of dry, solid ice off to the side to build a naked thread and rap back down. Amazing day with an amazing mentor who knew exactly how to teach the right lessons without saying a single word.
Ice 2 pitches
WI4-5
 96
Louise Falls
Mar 16, 2023 · Lead. With Susan. Obligatory seasonal climb of this. Led P2 + P3 crux to the top out. So, so crowded, even though it was a weekday. Waited until late afternoon for the route to clear, and it was perfect. Had it to ourselves.
Ice 3 pitches
WI4
 22
Shades of Beauty
Mar 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. With Teresa. Rest day climb. Did rock, paper, scissors to determine who would lead which pitches. I got P1 + P2, and Teresa got P3. P1 + P2 had very brittle ice, and P2 was overall crux, although it was short. P3 was longest, but had ridiculously hero ice. Could almost be careless with swings and kicks, and still have everything stick solidly. Snowy day with balmy temps. Fun, friendly little climb with a moderate approach.
Ice 3 pitches
WI4-5
 67
Lower Weeping Wall
Mar 11, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. With J.C. Climbed the steeper Right Hand (WI5) this time. Led P1 and P3. Chose a fresh, untouched WI5 line for P3. Felt very comfortable on both leads. P2 was great fun -- would like to lead it next time. Engaging, but relaxed climb with plenty of time and energy to spare. Another great day out on this wall with another great partner.
Ice 3 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hydrophobia N America > … > Ghost (North, S… > N Ghost
 23
WI5+ Ice 3 pitches
Apr 5, 2023 · 4 pitches. Lead / Onsight. With J.C. I led P3 and soloed P1 approach ice. (This comment counts the approach ice as P1, and therefore the entire route as four pitches.) Stunning route in a stunning location. Relentlessly sustained with sections that leaned out, adding a sting to the climbing. Ice was in poor shape: very brittle and aerated. Whole climb was a fight. We had to swing multiple times on most steps to get solid pick placements. Many of our ice screw placements probably wouldn't have held a fall. Tons of spindrift on P4, making it very difficult to see. Combined with the long ski in/out, it was a tiring day, but very happy to have experienced this classic.
Lower Weeping Wall N America > … > Icefields Parkway > Weeping Wall Area
 67
WI4-5 Ice 3 pitches
Mar 25, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. With J.C. Climbed Central Pillar this time. Led P1 and P3. Entire wall is degrading quickly. It was basically a pile of disintegrating snice. Water running on the far left and ride sides. P2 was in WI6 condition. Ridiculously sketchy ice. Thank goodness J.C. led it. There was a gong show on Left Hand with two parties that had extremely inexperienced leaders who were in way over their heads. They ran out of screws halfway through each pitch because they placed one every one/two meters. Each time, they would have their belayers lower them down so they could retrieve screws. Then they'd re-climb on top rope back to their last screw and continue. At each belay, they rested 15-20 minutes. It was laughable and appalling at the same time. Weeping Wall is neither a crag nor a place to hog up an entire section with poor etiquette and incompetence.
Whiteman Falls N America > … > Kananaskis > Whiteman Falls Draina…
 20
WI5-6 Ice 2 pitches
Mar 22, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. With the awesome Sarah Hueniken on her day off. Sarah kindly took the back seat and let me lead both pitches. Couldn't have asked for a better supporter, friend or coach. Right side was showering water, so we went up the left. On P2 (crux), after traversing around onto the front of the pillar, the climb became a total showerfest from above. Gloves completely soaked through, tool handles glazed up, water ran over my jacket, hair got wet and froze, glasses completely fogged up. Ice became increasingly slushy. Picks and crampons would unexpectedly slough out at times. Doubt any of the screws would have held. About 12 meters from the top, decided to call it. Ice was too insecure, and it was getting stupid risky. Miraculously found a square of dry, solid ice off to the side to build a naked thread and rap back down. Amazing day with an amazing mentor who knew exactly how to teach the right lessons without saying a single word.
Louise Falls N America > … > Lake Louise > Lake Louise Ice
 96
WI4-5 Ice 3 pitches
Mar 16, 2023 · Lead. With Susan. Obligatory seasonal climb of this. Led P2 + P3 crux to the top out. So, so crowded, even though it was a weekday. Waited until late afternoon for the route to clear, and it was perfect. Had it to ourselves.
Shades of Beauty N America > … > Icefields Parkway > Icefields Parkway - N…
 22
WI4 Ice 3 pitches
Mar 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. With Teresa. Rest day climb. Did rock, paper, scissors to determine who would lead which pitches. I got P1 + P2, and Teresa got P3. P1 + P2 had very brittle ice, and P2 was overall crux, although it was short. P3 was longest, but had ridiculously hero ice. Could almost be careless with swings and kicks, and still have everything stick solidly. Snowy day with balmy temps. Fun, friendly little climb with a moderate approach.
Lower Weeping Wall N America > … > Icefields Parkway > Weeping Wall Area
 67
WI4-5 Ice 3 pitches
Mar 11, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. With J.C. Climbed the steeper Right Hand (WI5) this time. Led P1 and P3. Chose a fresh, untouched WI5 line for P3. Felt very comfortable on both leads. P2 was great fun -- would like to lead it next time. Engaging, but relaxed climb with plenty of time and energy to spare. Another great day out on this wall with another great partner.

Tick Breakdown
Trad Sport Boulder Ice

Pitches Routes Days Out
90 Days 0 0 0
Last Year 0 0 0
5 Years 287 107 93
All Time 287 107 93

Where Kero Climbs

TradSportTRBoulderIce
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