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Alois Smrz

Idyllwild, CA
77 years old · Male
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More About Alois Drop down
Member Since
Dec 19, 2019
Last Visit: Jun 19, 2026
1,667 Points
Point Rank: #935 DetailsDrop down
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I first tied into rope in 1964 in the Bohemian Paradise (Prachov Towers) area of the Czech Republic. Came to the US in 1970. Had the good fortune to find great people to share the rope with ever since. Moved to Idyllwild full time in 2003. My wife Penelope and I still climb (scramble ?) on Tahquitz, in the Sierra and other western US ranges. If you read my messages, please forgive my occasional total destruction of your language, I'm doing my best.

Comments View All 65

Jun 11, 2026
High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Lone Pine Peak
Land of Little Rain 5.10c/d
● The second ascent of this route was done by Brandon Thau and Jon Stark in 1988. They raced up the route and… View Comment
Jun 11, 2026
Joshua Tree NP > … > Stirrup Tank > Stirrup Tank West > Stirrup Rock > Stirrup Rock - N Face
Finger Bowl (AKA Hold Tight Till Footing’s Right) 5.12a
● BTW, "Hold tight till Footing's Right" was a sign on the back of 1986 album by the legendary bluegrass guit… View Comment
May 19, 2026
Joshua Tree NP > … > Stirrup Tank > Stirrup Tank West > Stirrup Rock > Stirrup Rock - N Face
Finger Bowl (AKA Hold Tight Till Footing’s Right) 5.12a
● AJ That other "Hold Tight till Footing's Right" (in Vogel Guidebooks) is incorrectly placed and was never… View Comment
Feb 7, 2026
Southern-Wester… > Southern Sierra - The…
Hermit Spires
● Miguel Carmona and I climbed several new routes on Hermit Spire in the late 1980s. They are all documented… View Comment
Feb 7, 2026
Joshua Tree NP > … > Stirrup Tank > Stirrup Tank West > Graystone, The > Brothers in Arms (5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c)
Brothers in Arms (green line) on The Graystone. Photo and drawing by Miguel Carmona.
● This was originally climbed on two 1/4" bolts. In a phone call some time later, Johnny Woodward felt it int… View Comment
Dec 10, 2025
High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Lone Pine Peak
Winter Route 5.7 AI2 M3
● The knifeblade on the headwall (mentioned by Hamik) was most likely placed by me in 1983. Bill Krause and I… View Comment

Forum Messages View All 174

General > General Climbing
Reply: New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #43
Jun 12, 2026 LoriJust wanted to mention my wife's Penelope story with the same issue. She too was diagnosed with bone density problem a few years ago. We went on a 6 week trip to the Wind R… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: In search of climber Grant Gardner?
May 27, 2026 Andy, I hear from friends that Grant might be living in Idaho Falls, Idaho. Unfortunately, nobody I know has his address or phone... View Message
Regional > Southern California
Reply: What is this route in Tahquitz West Face?
May 21, 2026 I don't think there is any route that way. The stuff below the Jungle has nothing through it. If you are a bit right from the first pitch of Fingertip, the left facing big dihe… View Message
General > General Climbing
Reply: In search of climber Grant Gardner?
May 20, 2026 I talked to Grant couple years ago. He lived caring for his elderly father somewhere in San Bernardino County. For the life of me I don't remember the town. We talked about get… View Message
Regional > Southern California
Reply: Tahquitz rockfall?
Apr 24, 2026 I have seen the huge boulder and fallen trees there for about three weeks or so ( Not sure about it). The boulder (about the size of a very large car) must have fallen off of t… View Message
Regional > Southern California
Reply: Idyllwild Climbers Alliance update
Mar 20, 2026 We in Idyllwild dearly miss Bruce Watts. He lived here for many years, worked as a cook at several restaurants (Incl Gastronome), worked at Nomad Ventures for many years. Bruce… View Message

Route Scores View All 366

5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 49
● Yellow Peril
Trad
Joshua Tree NP > … > W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 6
● North Ridge (full)
Trad, Alpine
High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Lone Pine Peak
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 28
● Northeast Arete
Trad, Alpine
Southwest Region > … > Paradise Valley > Cowen Massif
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 1,825
● Dark Shadows
Trad 4 pitches
Southern Nevada > … > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 208
● The Chief
Trad
Joshua Tree NP > … > N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 155
● Route 66
Trad
Joshua Tree NP > … > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
● Yellow Peril Joshua Tree NP > … > W Mongolia > Asian Friends Buttress
Avg:  49
Alois:
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
5.5
● North Ridge (full) High Sierra > 14 - Whitney &… > Lone Pine Peak
Avg:  6
Alois:
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad, Alpine
5.7
● Northeast Arete Southwest Region > … > Paradise Valley > Cowen Massif
Avg:  28
Alois:
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad, Alpine
● Dark Shadows Southern Nevada > … > Mescalito > Dark Shadows Wall
Avg:  1,825
Alois:
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
● The Chief Joshua Tree NP > … > N Wonderland Ap… > Reggie Dome
Avg:  208
Alois:
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
● Route 66 Joshua Tree NP > … > Gilligan's Island > Mary Ann's Face
Avg:  155
Alois:
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
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