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d sowerby > Comments
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Jul 23, 2021
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The first part of this climb - into the scoop with the long chains is 12c and "Horizontal Delight". The con…
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Jun 30, 2021
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Yeah summertime basalt projects :-( Crack of dawn starts (if I could find a willing belayer). Ha! You…
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Jun 21, 2021
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Tymun and I bolted this, but we just got tired of the holds constantly breaking. Glad it "finally" got into…
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Jun 11, 2021
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It used to have a fixed pin about 10ft up, in the horizontals. Above that, if you were smart, you placed a…
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Jun 11, 2021
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Totally agree with Matt, this is a great, atypical, trad route for the Portland area. Surprised it doesn't…
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Jun 11, 2021
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Guys, guys, I know that this is a fun finger crack (a rare beast in Portland), but the actual crack is like…
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Jun 7, 2021
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Historical note: while placing the top bolts I managed to drop Jay Green's Bosch drill ---- while he was wa…
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Jun 7, 2021
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Historical note: The original name for this route was "Shadowdancer". Mike and I freed it, and to keep wit…
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Jun 4, 2021
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3rd ascent after all this time, well done. And downgraded...........oh the shame :-)
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May 8, 2021
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A little clarification on why there are two anchors. The lower anchor at the top of the slab is the origina…
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May 8, 2021
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Do you have enough energy to place the cam and clip it? Or should you just use that energy getting to the n…
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May 8, 2021
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I found that if I ignored the huge ledge at your right hand and stuck to the face crimps, then that improve…
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May 8, 2021
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Have to disagree about the grade (of course). There is an almost no hands rest under the roof, between "Gra…
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Apr 29, 2021
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Historical note: The name "Chop the monkey" comes from the FA team who took umbrage at Gary Rall's manufact…
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Apr 28, 2021
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Historical note: when Peter Croft ( younger climbers will have to use Google) visited Portland for a slide…
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Apr 28, 2021
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Hmm......what could the connection be between Amazon Woman and Dark Shadows? "Extinction" at Madrone could…
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Apr 6, 2021
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Probably the best 11d in Portland, IMO better than Pinhead.
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Apr 6, 2021
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Indeed -- fun,hard and short (hmm.... there may be a joke lurking there somewhere) and 12a (barely)
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Apr 6, 2021
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FA Walter Anyan/David Sowerby Summer '95 The 2nd and 3rd bolt placements weren't ideal due to hollow-soun…
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Apr 6, 2021
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The climber in the pic is to the left of where I climbed. I reached left and placed gear in the same place,…
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Apr 6, 2021
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This description (for Black Prow) should probably be re-written. The above tells you how to get on BP if yo…
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Mar 26, 2021
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Probably the best idea Just make an addition to the route info. Thanks. Zachary more than likely got the 2n…
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Mar 22, 2021
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It"s been a long time but I"m pretty sure it's the higher option.
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Mar 18, 2021
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Cutting left at the crux was very naughty! Sorry I couldn't move the route a little to the right :-) You m…
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Mar 16, 2021
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As I bolted this for Andrew and then belayed him on the FA, you can also blame me for the grade .....mwahha…
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Mar 16, 2021
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Can't believe you guys cleaned this up and climbed it. Thanks. The name comes from a faint wing-like impres…
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Mar 10, 2021
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Please don't bolt this. It's easy to set up the TR. Do we need another 2 bolt climb?
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Mar 10, 2021
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I think the comments about people bolting over existing routes are aimed mostly at Stark. He has bolted ove…
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Feb 4, 2021
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As everyone knows, 30 years ago gravity in the Broughton area was much weaker than it is today.
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Jan 13, 2021
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Greg as we discussed thru email, you have my permission to replace the old bolts with shiny new SS ones. Mo…
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Jan 11, 2021
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FA: Tymun Abbott, Sam Elmore and myself
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Jan 11, 2021
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Yes Bill, behind the curve as usual :-) It does seem that every crag has one, but this crag has two! As an…
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Nov 4, 2020
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I'm going to burst your bubble, this route originally only had the last bolt before the anchor. It was don…
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Jun 5, 2020
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Hmmm..... pretty sure I static'ed off the crimp. It's been a long time :-) I was pretty good at lock-offs.…
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May 31, 2020
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You dyno'ed it? Jeeezus! No wonder it seemed hard. LOL Well done. Maybe that will entice others.
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May 27, 2020
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standard 11d (Portland grades)
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