Nov 3, 2021 · Lead / Flash. Heel hook beta from Luke for the crux. Literally a one-move wonder. Based on my personal tick list of 12a’s, this barely passes for 11d. If you are tall the crux is significantly easier. Great into into 12-type territory for someone new to overhang. For cleaning, get to the top and then down climb to lip and take the whip rather than ruining your rope on that ledge. Not psyched on the perma-slings, but they held my whip on the way down. Needs metal gear.
Oct 27, 2021 · Lead / Fell/Hung. This thing is nails at the crux if you do the direct line. Did not attempt left transverse, seemed like I’d be cheating myself since I figured out the direct beta. Did the crux clean all the way through twice and it feels 11c at least. Maybe due to polish. The slab below is really easy once you figure out the sequence but felt impossible when doing it wrong.