Mountain Project Logo
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1,877
High Exposure
Oct 6, 2024 · Lead. w/teddy! i wound up with wicked rope drag on p1. next time EXTEND THE FIXED GEAR!!! also was running out of gear by the end of it which made it pretty spicy. teddy backed off p2, couldn't figure out the move, and this was just after eli's accident so wasn't feeling it. i led p2 and it was great! much shorter than i remembered.
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 213
Andrew
Oct 6, 2024 · 3 pitches. Lead. w/teddy. great time! i lead p1 he lead p2/3. got to watch people projecting ozone while belaying teddy!
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 346
Moonlight
Sep 26, 2024 · Lead. i led p1 5.7 variation and found it really hard - teddy said that i missed some stems which would have made it go quite a bit easier... teddy led p2 & styled it!!! so cool
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 101
Triple Bulges
Sep 26, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. teddy led p1 i led p2. p2 was pretty contrived but the last roof was awesome! rapped past the second rap station so that was exciting. it's ABOVE WEEPING WILLIES ANCHOR
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
 63
Blueberry Ledges
Jul 28, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. loved this route! teddy lead p1 and it was really fun to follow, seems like it would have been a great lead. gear seemed sparse but adequate. p2 & p3 linked really nicely with a 60m. i can see how pitching out 2 & 3 separately might be underwhelming, but linking them made for a really nice flowy, interesting pitch!
Trad 3 pitches
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 619
Limelight
Jul 28, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. teddy led p1, it was an amazing pitch, seemed like would’ve been a beautiful pitch to lead. teddy placed the most beautiful pink tricam i've seen to mitigate the first runout. i led p2 and was swearing loudly the entire way through the the crux. teddy used a lot of gear in the p1 anchor and i dispatched two small pieces off the bat on p2 so i was really heading into the fingertip crack with very little gear to protect it which i was not happy about. wish id thought that through a bit more in advance! i’d say gear was just adequate in p2. i had a pretty big runout up until the crux, but i went left instead of following the corner. i think the runout might’ve been able to been mitigated a bit by staying right into the corner. either way, very heady climb! this was my first 5.7 at the gunks and it felt like a real step up from the 5.6’s
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 17
Easy Edge
Jul 18, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. nice climb! was able to set up a gear directional above, using the bolts as the anchor. had 5 lines off one anchor! 5.4-5.9, amazing
Trad, TR
V3 6A
 4
Phillipski
Feb 12, 2024 · Send. super fun
Boulder
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 419
Beginner's Delight
Oct 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. madeline’s first multi! great climb. made the same rope management error as the first time i climbed it. guess i’m regressing lol
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 142
Red Pillar
Oct 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. wild climb! madeline’s 2nd multipitch. very stiff for 5.5. off p1 ledge, cam out left after pin. p2 had really neat double crux. second one was really hard for 5.5!
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 377
Maria
Sep 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. amazing climb! i led p1&3, eli led p2. got to redo the frogs head crux which went better but still felt clumsy. rest of pitch was cruiser, p2 was amazing stemming, p3 roof was thrilling! i found it very tough, i think i missed some holds/feet that would have made it easier
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 825
The Ceiling
Sep 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. i led p1&3, ben led p2. great climb! heel hooked the roof and managed to avoid jamming as i’m still recovering from knicking my knuckle on the grinder the other day
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 5
"Center Crack"
Sep 3, 2023 · 2 pitches. Solo. toproped the left and right line, and then DWS'd the left & center line. amazing climb, such a perfect DWS!!
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 77
Bee Hold
Sep 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. great climb, i found it very hard! very techy
Sport
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 1
Kristin
Sep 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. nice first slab lead. tough crux for 5.4, hornets nest behind side pull
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 1,877
High Exposure
Aug 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. led w/nate!! so sick!! i led p2 he led p1. what a day
Trad 2 pitches
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 583
Gelsa
Aug 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/mike. would try linking p1 and p2 next time
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 475
Disneyland
Aug 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. lead both pitches w/mike. really nice climb!
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 707
Jackie
Aug 3, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/nate for his bday! he lead p1, i lead p2 which was way better than i remembered it
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 1,054
Horseman
Jul 19, 2023 · Lead / Flash. led 5.6 variation with eli, such an amazing climb!!! loved it, much better than the last couple experiences following it. climbed well, rope like was great, protection was solid but not overdone, and i think i got the right cam on the first try every time!!
Trad
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 239
No Picnic
Jul 11, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/mike, his first climb at the gunks! great climb
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
 213
Andrew
Jun 4, 2023 · 3 pitches. Lead / Onsight. w/teddy, finally did all the pitches! clouded over and the wind picked up at p2 anchor though, just to remind me of last time :) i’d link the last pitch if i i were to do it again
Trad 4 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 328
Middle Earth
Jun 4, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. w/teddy. nice thoughtful pitch
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 271
Credibility Gap
Jun 4, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. with teddy, what an amazing move!! cool thin pitch below too.
Trad 2 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 222
Wrist
May 26, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. eli led p1 arch, i led p2 wrist. cool traverse!! felt more like 5.4 or 5.5 to me, probably because i could reach the feet on the traverse
Trad 2 pitches
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
 322
Easy Overhang
May 26, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. led both pitches with eli, he did p2 baby in between. nice climb! p2 felt harder than 5.2
Trad 2 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 537
Betty
Apr 21, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. john patrick led p1, i led p2 in the chimney finally. great pitches, both of them!
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 26
Simple Ceilings
Apr 21, 2023 · 4 pitches. Lead / Onsight. w/john patrick. p1/2 were a bit lame, though a couple fun moves at end of p2. connecting these pitches would definitely be the way to go next time. john combined p3/4 for a really fun pitch with a really interesting roof on p4, with a slab for feet. dirty end of pitch, would maybe try going left after roof next time? some bigger unprotected moves at the beginning of p3 off the GT ledge, with a lot of rope out.
Trad 3 pitches
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 346
Moonlight
Apr 19, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. terrifyingly awesome! coolest climb i’ve done at the gunks. amazing movement through crux, but really run out, next have i would spend more time getting that pro dialed before heading in. used eli’s red 0.1 and a .75 and didn’t love either of them. also would see if there was an upper line. wound up with a ton of rope drag, would work to mitigate that next time, including extending traverse intro and exit for 3d nature of it. eli lead p1, i lead p2. lastly, p1 of erect direction can be top roped from the re-belay for p2 moonlight. it goes at 5.8 and looks really fun!
Trad 2 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 360
Double Chin
Apr 11, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. holy shit what an amazing climb! really strenuous crux to climb/protect, definitely didn’t feel like 5.5 to me. totally thrilling though, psyched to have done it! felt really good about the lead
Trad
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 395
Minty
Apr 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. eli lead p1, i lead p2 this time. loved it so much more!! p2 is an amazing pitch, this is now my fave 5.3 at the gunks. top roped snooky’s afterwards which was awesome
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 190
Hawk
Apr 3, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/ben - totally wild climb even second time around! p2 was unexpectedly wet even after a few days of sun, so made the crux pretty spicy
Trad 3 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 48
Yale
Apr 3, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. nice quick warmup with ben
Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 606
Three Pines
Mar 29, 2023 · Lead. first lead of the season! i linked p1 & p2, then instead of moving the belay eli went from p2 to belay up to on the ledge, and then i lead the p3 5.5+ section. eli’s little yellow was perfect for protecting it. i think it’s probably a 0.2
Trad 3 pitches
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
 164
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V)
Nov 20, 2022 · 2 pitches. Lead / Onsight. lead sometime late 2023 w/eli, not the line i’d always wanted to climb - need to climber harder for that one! i think i’d always mistaken hans puss for easy v. i think i lead p1 and he lead p2
Trad 3 pitches
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
 100
Updraft
Nov 10, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. eli lead p1, i lead p2. what a gnarly climb!!
Trad 2 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
High Exposure Gunks > Trapps > i. High E
 1,877
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Oct 6, 2024 · Lead. w/teddy! i wound up with wicked rope drag on p1. next time EXTEND THE FIXED GEAR!!! also was running out of gear by the end of it which made it pretty spicy. teddy backed off p2, couldn't figure out the move, and this was just after eli's accident so wasn't feeling it. i led p2 and it was great! much shorter than i remembered.
Andrew Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
 213
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Oct 6, 2024 · 3 pitches. Lead. w/teddy. great time! i lead p1 he lead p2/3. got to watch people projecting ozone while belaying teddy!
Moonlight Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
 346
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Sep 26, 2024 · Lead. i led p1 5.7 variation and found it really hard - teddy said that i missed some stems which would have made it go quite a bit easier... teddy led p2 & styled it!!! so cool
Triple Bulges Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…
 101
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Sep 26, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. teddy led p1 i led p2. p2 was pretty contrived but the last roof was awesome! rapped past the second rap station so that was exciting. it's ABOVE WEEPING WILLIES ANCHOR
Blueberry Ledges Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…
 63
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 Trad 3 pitches
Jul 28, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. loved this route! teddy lead p1 and it was really fun to follow, seems like it would have been a great lead. gear seemed sparse but adequate. p2 & p3 linked really nicely with a 60m. i can see how pitching out 2 & 3 separately might be underwhelming, but linking them made for a really nice flowy, interesting pitch!
Limelight Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
 619
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad 2 pitches
Jul 28, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. teddy led p1, it was an amazing pitch, seemed like would’ve been a beautiful pitch to lead. teddy placed the most beautiful pink tricam i've seen to mitigate the first runout. i led p2 and was swearing loudly the entire way through the the crux. teddy used a lot of gear in the p1 anchor and i dispatched two small pieces off the bat on p2 so i was really heading into the fingertip crack with very little gear to protect it which i was not happy about. wish id thought that through a bit more in advance! i’d say gear was just adequate in p2. i had a pretty big runout up until the crux, but i went left instead of following the corner. i think the runout might’ve been able to been mitigated a bit by staying right into the corner. either way, very heady climb! this was my first 5.7 at the gunks and it felt like a real step up from the 5.6’s
Easy Edge Adirondacks > K: Northern Region > Baker Mountain
 17
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
Jul 18, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. nice climb! was able to set up a gear directional above, using the bolts as the anchor. had 5 lines off one anchor! 5.4-5.9, amazing
Phillipski Gunks > … > Wawarsing Parki… > Warwarsing Boulder
 4
V3 6A Boulder
Feb 12, 2024 · Send. super fun
Beginner's Delight Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…
 419
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Oct 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. madeline’s first multi! great climb. made the same rope management error as the first time i climbed it. guess i’m regressing lol
Red Pillar Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
 142
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Oct 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. wild climb! madeline’s 2nd multipitch. very stiff for 5.5. off p1 ledge, cam out left after pin. p2 had really neat double crux. second one was really hard for 5.5!
Maria Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
 377
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Sep 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. amazing climb! i led p1&3, eli led p2. got to redo the frogs head crux which went better but still felt clumsy. rest of pitch was cruiser, p2 was amazing stemming, p3 roof was thrilling! i found it very tough, i think i missed some holds/feet that would have made it easier
The Ceiling Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - The Cei…
 825
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Sep 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. i led p1&3, ben led p2. great climb! heel hooked the roof and managed to avoid jamming as i’m still recovering from knicking my knuckle on the grinder the other day
"Center Crack" Adirondacks > K: Northern Region > Bluff Island
 5
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Sep 3, 2023 · 2 pitches. Solo. toproped the left and right line, and then DWS'd the left & center line. amazing climb, such a perfect DWS!!
Bee Hold Adirondacks > … > Spanky's Area > Sunshine City
 77
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sep 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. great climb, i found it very hard! very techy
Kristin Adirondacks > … > Spanky's Area > Sunshine City
 1
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad
Sep 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. nice first slab lead. tough crux for 5.4, hornets nest behind side pull
High Exposure Gunks > Trapps > i. High E
 1,877
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Aug 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. led w/nate!! so sick!! i led p2 he led p1. what a day
Gelsa Gunks > Near Trapps > a. Beginning of cliff…
 583
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Aug 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/mike. would try linking p1 and p2 next time
Disneyland Gunks > Near Trapps > a. Beginning of cliff…
 475
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Aug 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. lead both pitches w/mike. really nice climb!
Jackie Gunks > Trapps > b. Jackie & friends
 707
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Aug 3, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/nate for his bday! he lead p1, i lead p2 which was way better than i remembered it
Horseman Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left
 1,054
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Jul 19, 2023 · Lead / Flash. led 5.6 variation with eli, such an amazing climb!!! loved it, much better than the last couple experiences following it. climbed well, rope like was great, protection was solid but not overdone, and i think i got the right cam on the first try every time!!
No Picnic Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left
 239
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Jul 11, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/mike, his first climb at the gunks! great climb
Andrew Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
 213
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13 Trad 4 pitches
Jun 4, 2023 · 3 pitches. Lead / Onsight. w/teddy, finally did all the pitches! clouded over and the wind picked up at p2 anchor though, just to remind me of last time :) i’d link the last pitch if i i were to do it again
Middle Earth Gunks > Trapps > g. V3 - Middle Earth
 328
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 3 pitches
Jun 4, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. w/teddy. nice thoughtful pitch
Credibility Gap Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…
 271
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Jun 4, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. with teddy, what an amazing move!! cool thin pitch below too.
Wrist Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
 222
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
May 26, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. eli led p1 arch, i led p2 wrist. cool traverse!! felt more like 5.4 or 5.5 to me, probably because i could reach the feet on the traverse
Easy Overhang Gunks > Trapps > c. Frog's Head - the…
 322
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c Trad 2 pitches
May 26, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. led both pitches with eli, he did p2 baby in between. nice climb! p2 felt harder than 5.2
Betty Gunks > Trapps > b. Jackie & friends
 537
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 2 pitches
Apr 21, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. john patrick led p1, i led p2 in the chimney finally. great pitches, both of them!
Simple Ceilings Gunks > Trapps > d. Strictly - The Cei…
 26
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Apr 21, 2023 · 4 pitches. Lead / Onsight. w/john patrick. p1/2 were a bit lame, though a couple fun moves at end of p2. connecting these pitches would definitely be the way to go next time. john combined p3/4 for a really fun pitch with a really interesting roof on p4, with a slab for feet. dirty end of pitch, would maybe try going left after roof next time? some bigger unprotected moves at the beginning of p3 off the GT ledge, with a lot of rope out.
Moonlight Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
 346
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 2 pitches
Apr 19, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. terrifyingly awesome! coolest climb i’ve done at the gunks. amazing movement through crux, but really run out, next have i would spend more time getting that pro dialed before heading in. used eli’s red 0.1 and a .75 and didn’t love either of them. also would see if there was an upper line. wound up with a ton of rope drag, would work to mitigate that next time, including extending traverse intro and exit for 3d nature of it. eli lead p1, i lead p2. lastly, p1 of erect direction can be top roped from the re-belay for p2 moonlight. it goes at 5.8 and looks really fun!
Double Chin Gunks > Trapps > a1. The Uberfall - left
 360
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad
Apr 11, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. holy shit what an amazing climb! really strenuous crux to climb/protect, definitely didn’t feel like 5.5 to me. totally thrilling though, psyched to have done it! felt really good about the lead
Minty Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…
 395
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad 3 pitches
Apr 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. eli lead p1, i lead p2 this time. loved it so much more!! p2 is an amazing pitch, this is now my fave 5.3 at the gunks. top roped snooky’s afterwards which was awesome
Hawk Gunks > Trapps > f. The Guides' Wall (…
 190
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 3 pitches
Apr 3, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/ben - totally wild climb even second time around! p2 was unexpectedly wet even after a few days of sun, so made the crux pretty spicy
Yale Gunks > Trapps > a2. The Uberfall - right
 48
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad
Apr 3, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. nice quick warmup with ben
Three Pines Gunks > Trapps > e. The Mac Wall (Some…
 606
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
Mar 29, 2023 · Lead. first lead of the season! i linked p1 & p2, then instead of moving the belay eli went from p2 to belay up to on the ledge, and then i lead the p3 5.5+ section. eli’s little yellow was perfect for protecting it. i think it’s probably a 0.2
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V) Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
 164
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad 3 pitches
Nov 20, 2022 · 2 pitches. Lead / Onsight. lead sometime late 2023 w/eli, not the line i’d always wanted to climb - need to climber harder for that one! i think i’d always mistaken hans puss for easy v. i think i lead p1 and he lead p2
Updraft Gunks > Trapps > h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
 100
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a Trad 2 pitches
Nov 10, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. eli lead p1, i lead p2. what a gnarly climb!!
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.