Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
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High Exposure
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
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5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
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Oct 6, 2024 · Lead. w/teddy! i wound up with wicked rope drag on p1. next time EXTEND THE FIXED GEAR!!! also was running out of gear by the end of it which made it pretty spicy. teddy backed off p2, couldn't figure out the move, and this was just after eli's accident so wasn't feeling it. i led p2 and it was great! much shorter than i remembered.
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●
Andrew
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Trad 4 pitches
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Oct 6, 2024 · 3 pitches. Lead. w/teddy. great time! i lead p1 he lead p2/3. got to watch people projecting ozone while belaying teddy!
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●
Moonlight
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
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Sep 26, 2024 · Lead. i led p1 5.7 variation and found it really hard - teddy said that i missed some stems which would have made it go quite a bit easier... teddy led p2 & styled it!!! so cool
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●
Triple Bulges
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> f. The Guides' Wall (…
|
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5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad 2 pitches
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Sep 26, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. teddy led p1 i led p2. p2 was pretty contrived but the last roof was awesome! rapped past the second rap station so that was exciting. it's ABOVE WEEPING WILLIES ANCHOR
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●
Blueberry Ledges
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> f. The Guides' Wall (…
|
63
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13
Trad 3 pitches
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Jul 28, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. loved this route! teddy lead p1 and it was really fun to follow, seems like it would have been a great lead. gear seemed sparse but adequate. p2 & p3 linked really nicely with a 60m. i can see how pitching out 2 & 3 separately might be underwhelming, but linking them made for a really nice flowy, interesting pitch!
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●
Limelight
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
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|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
Jul 28, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. teddy led p1, it was an amazing pitch, seemed like would’ve been a beautiful pitch to lead. teddy placed the most beautiful pink tricam i've seen to mitigate the first runout. i led p2 and was swearing loudly the entire way through the the crux.
teddy used a lot of gear in the p1 anchor and i dispatched two small pieces off the bat on p2 so i was really heading into the fingertip crack with very little gear to protect it which i was not happy about. wish id thought that through a bit more in advance!
i’d say gear was just adequate in p2. i had a pretty big runout up until the crux, but i went left instead of following the corner. i think the runout might’ve been able to been mitigated a bit by staying right into the corner.
either way, very heady climb! this was my first 5.7 at the gunks and it felt like a real step up from the 5.6’s
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●
Easy Edge
|
Adirondacks
> K: Northern Region
> Baker Mountain
|
17
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad, TR
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Jul 18, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. nice climb! was able to set up a gear directional above, using the bolts as the anchor. had 5 lines off one anchor! 5.4-5.9, amazing
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●
Phillipski
|
Gunks
> …
> Wawarsing Parki…
> Warwarsing Boulder
|
|
V3 6A
Boulder
|
Feb 12, 2024 · Send. super fun
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●
Beginner's Delight
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> f. The Guides' Wall (…
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad 3 pitches
|
Oct 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. madeline’s first multi! great climb. made the same rope management error as the first time i climbed it. guess i’m regressing lol
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●
Red Pillar
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad 2 pitches
|
Oct 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. wild climb! madeline’s 2nd multipitch. very stiff for 5.5.
off p1 ledge, cam out left after pin. p2 had really neat double crux. second one was really hard for 5.5!
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●
Maria
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> c. Frog's Head - the…
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 3 pitches
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Sep 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. amazing climb! i led p1&3, eli led p2. got to redo the frogs head crux which went better but still felt clumsy. rest of pitch was cruiser, p2 was amazing stemming, p3 roof was thrilling! i found it very tough, i think i missed some holds/feet that would have made it easier
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●
The Ceiling
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> d. Strictly - The Cei…
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 3 pitches
|
Sep 12, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. i led p1&3, ben led p2. great climb! heel hooked the roof and managed to avoid jamming as i’m still recovering from knicking my knuckle on the grinder the other day
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●
"Center Crack"
|
Adirondacks
> K: Northern Region
> Bluff Island
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
Sep 3, 2023 · 2 pitches. Solo. toproped the left and right line, and then DWS'd the left & center line. amazing climb, such a perfect DWS!!
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●
Bee Hold
|
Adirondacks
> …
> Spanky's Area
> Sunshine City
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sport
|
Sep 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. great climb, i found it very hard! very techy
|
●
Kristin
|
Adirondacks
> …
> Spanky's Area
> Sunshine City
|
1
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad
|
Sep 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. nice first slab lead. tough crux for 5.4, hornets nest behind side pull
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●
High Exposure
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> i. High E
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
Aug 13, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. led w/nate!! so sick!! i led p2 he led p1. what a day
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●
Gelsa
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> a. Beginning of cliff…
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad 3 pitches
|
Aug 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/mike. would try linking p1 and p2 next time
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●
Disneyland
|
Gunks
> Near Trapps
> a. Beginning of cliff…
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
Aug 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. lead both pitches w/mike. really nice climb!
|
●
Jackie
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> b. Jackie & friends
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad 2 pitches
|
Aug 3, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/nate for his bday! he lead p1, i lead p2 which was way better than i remembered it
|
●
Horseman
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad
|
Jul 19, 2023 · Lead / Flash. led 5.6 variation with eli, such an amazing climb!!! loved it, much better than the last couple experiences following it. climbed well, rope like was great, protection was solid but not overdone, and i think i got the right cam on the first try every time!!
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●
No Picnic
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad
|
Jul 11, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/mike, his first climb at the gunks! great climb
|
●
Andrew
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c PG13
Trad 4 pitches
|
Jun 4, 2023 · 3 pitches. Lead / Onsight. w/teddy, finally did all the pitches! clouded over and the wind picked up at p2 anchor though, just to remind me of last time :) i’d link the last pitch if i i were to do it again
|
●
Middle Earth
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> g. V3 - Middle Earth
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 3 pitches
|
Jun 4, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. w/teddy. nice thoughtful pitch
|
●
Credibility Gap
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> e. The Mac Wall (Some…
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
Jun 4, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. with teddy, what an amazing move!! cool thin pitch below too.
|
●
Wrist
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> c. Frog's Head - the…
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
May 26, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. eli led p1 arch, i led p2 wrist. cool traverse!! felt more like 5.4 or 5.5 to me, probably because i could reach the feet on the traverse
|
●
Easy Overhang
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> c. Frog's Head - the…
|
|
5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Trad 2 pitches
|
May 26, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. led both pitches with eli, he did p2 baby in between. nice climb! p2 felt harder than 5.2
|
●
Betty
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> b. Jackie & friends
|
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Trad 2 pitches
|
Apr 21, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. john patrick led p1, i led p2 in the chimney finally. great pitches, both of them!
|
●
Simple Ceilings
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> d. Strictly - The Cei…
|
26
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad 3 pitches
|
Apr 21, 2023 · 4 pitches. Lead / Onsight. w/john patrick. p1/2 were a bit lame, though a couple fun moves at end of p2. connecting these pitches would definitely be the way to go next time. john combined p3/4 for a really fun pitch with a really interesting roof on p4, with a slab for feet. dirty end of pitch, would maybe try going left after roof next time? some bigger unprotected moves at the beginning of p3 off the GT ledge, with a lot of rope out.
|
●
Moonlight
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 2 pitches
|
Apr 19, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. terrifyingly awesome! coolest climb i’ve done at the gunks. amazing movement through crux, but really run out, next have i would spend more time getting that pro dialed before heading in. used eli’s red 0.1 and a .75 and didn’t love either of them. also would see if there was an upper line. wound up with a ton of rope drag, would work to mitigate that next time, including extending traverse intro and exit for 3d nature of it. eli lead p1, i lead p2.
lastly, p1 of erect direction can be top roped from the re-belay for p2 moonlight. it goes at 5.8 and looks really fun!
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●
Double Chin
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad
|
Apr 11, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. holy shit what an amazing climb! really strenuous crux to climb/protect, definitely didn’t feel like 5.5 to me. totally thrilling though, psyched to have done it! felt really good about the lead
|
●
Minty
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> f. The Guides' Wall (…
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad 3 pitches
|
Apr 10, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. eli lead p1, i lead p2 this time. loved it so much more!! p2 is an amazing pitch, this is now my fave 5.3 at the gunks. top roped snooky’s afterwards which was awesome
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●
Hawk
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> f. The Guides' Wall (…
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad 3 pitches
|
Apr 3, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. w/ben - totally wild climb even second time around! p2 was unexpectedly wet even after a few days of sun, so made the crux pretty spicy
|
●
Yale
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a2. The Uberfall - right
|
48
|
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Trad
|
Apr 3, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. nice quick warmup with ben
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●
Three Pines
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> e. The Mac Wall (Some…
|
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Trad 3 pitches
|
Mar 29, 2023 · Lead. first lead of the season! i linked p1 & p2, then instead of moving the belay eli went from p2 to belay up to on the ledge, and then i lead the p3 5.5+ section. eli’s little yellow was perfect for protecting it. i think it’s probably a 0.2
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●
Easy Verschneidung (Easy V)
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Trad 3 pitches
|
Nov 20, 2022 · 2 pitches. Lead / Onsight. lead sometime late 2023 w/eli, not the line i’d always wanted to climb - need to climber harder for that one! i think i’d always mistaken hans puss for easy v. i think i lead p1 and he lead p2
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●
Updraft
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> h. The Arrow Wall - CCK
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad 2 pitches
|
Nov 10, 2022 · Lead / Onsight. eli lead p1, i lead p2. what a gnarly climb!!
|