Apr 24, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. 6.5hrs car to car.
Gear: 2 sets of totems and #3.
Route seemed to be shaded all day.
Pitch 5, 5.10c: The super topo states to "stay to the left of bolts" I committed to this even though it looked better on the right side part way up. I ending up having to step on the third bolt to traverse over to the left side of the bolts :-(. I would suggest not following the book and starting right and making your way left prior to being above the third bolt if free climbing it.
With 58m rope we linked 1-2, 3-4, 5-6.
Finding and rapping the dedicated rap line at pitch 10 was simple and fast, I dont think it was 12 raps like the book states, Closer to 8.
Apr 23, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. 9.5hrs car to car.
hiked up from the Zodiac talus, less than 1 hour to base.
Gear: double rack of totems and single #4.
Linked 2-3, 4-5, 7-8 and 12-13(Supertopo shows 13 pitches).
If you are tall(5'10"+) or have decent apex index the single move 5.10b part seemed much easier being able to reach past the crimps to the right hand slopping jug, with left foot on the good step just below the anchor while also holding the left hand arete, higher the better.