Jul 30, 2023 · Follow. P1 was a lot of 5 tree. Had to drag the pack up the chimney. Wouldn’t have felt comfy running it out like Alex did.
Bumped belay for P2. Flakes pitch was super fun, would be a heady lead for me.
Alex super linked p3/4 in about 65m. p3 especially is the money pitch in the corner. Got beat down hard.
P5 pretty quick/trivial 3/4 class terrain.
Raps are all tat on empty hangers aside from rap 1. Extra cord/rings/quick links recommended.
Alex’s gear thoughts - 2x4s and ditch the 5.
Jul 29, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Pretty easy climbing. Crux off the ground at a 3 to protect the ground fall.
Used about half the gear of doubles through 2 with 3 nuts placed.
Simuled p1/2, quick belay, then led across ledge. Would repeat this way. A 1 protects the final belay well from the summit ledge with a muenter.
Jul 29, 2023 · Lead / Flash. Simuled with Alex. Burned a bit too much mid size gear early, could have used it at the top. Got by on the bear hug summit with a 0.4 and a blue totem. Don’t place the 3 right before the summit block.
Route finding was tough on p2 but nailed it. A little spooky moving left out of the big huecos but it ate a 2 and something smaller. Leftward facing “flakes” before huecos were also a bit physical/challenging. Lost about 10-15 mins with route finding.
Would not carry a 4 or 5, had to work to offload 4. 12 alpine draws would have been better than 10.
Rap could be done with a double 70 all the way to the Lexington/concord notch.
2 hours up and over.
Jul 21, 2023 · 3 pitches. Lead / Flash. Combined p1/p2 w/ a 70. Alex let those. Felt not super confident in the chimney, definitely want to climb this again. Led p3. Black totem in finger traverse would kill the cam but it protected better than the fixed pin without the rope drag. P4 boulder problem is only 5th class, wasn’t feeling confident.
Don’t downclimb p4 like the beta. Rap from the small tree (tat) above the upper cliff (the downclimb takes you around and down the ridge that’s over this cliff) to a short walk to bolted anchors skiers right. Probably could link rap 2/3 to the ground with double 70s.