Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
●
Ginzu
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Way Rambo
|
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
Apr 14, 2024 · Follow. .3s were rough for me, .75s were hard for Dan
|
●
Wishbone Suspension
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Way Rambo
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
Apr 14, 2024 · Follow.
|
●
Jupiter Crack
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Sparks Wall
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad
|
Apr 13, 2024 · Follow. Very tall moves at the bottom.
Hand traverse there top and rested with leg in the crack and bumped the 5.
|
●
Scenic Line
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Sparks Wall
|
|
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Trad
|
Apr 13, 2024 · 5x 1, 2-3x 2, 1x .75
|
●
Way Rambo
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Way Rambo
|
|
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
Apr 13, 2024 · Lead. 1x .5, 3x 1-2, 4x .75 (5 for good luck), 2 slings
Burly final move.
|
●
Layaway Plan
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Way Rambo
|
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
Apr 13, 2024 · Lead. Jam the roof straight in and layback around the corners and .75s
8x 1s, 1-2 2s, 2x 3s, 2-3x .75, 1x .5, runners
|
●
Supercrack of the Desert (a…
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad 3 pitches
|
Apr 12, 2024 · Lead. bouldery start. 1x .5, 1. 3x 2, definitely more than 5x 3
|
●
Coyne Crack
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
Apr 12, 2024 · Lead. 1x .5, 3-4x .75, 6-7x .1, 2x 2
Fewer .75s if you lie back the first bit (recommended)
|
●
Gorilla
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Supercrack Buttress
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
Apr 12, 2024 · Lead. 4x 3, 2-3x 2, 2x 4, 1x 5, 1x .5-1
|
●
Positraction
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> 3D
|
|
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Trad
|
Nov 12, 2023 · Follow. There’s a crux for everyone!
|
●
Night Nurse
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> 3D
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
Nov 12, 2023 · Lead. 6x 1, 4x 2, 3x .75, 1x 3-4
Save the 1s for the top!
|
●
Hayutake [direct start]
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Optimator
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
Nov 11, 2023 · TR. Sweet start!
Amazing hands for the last 20 ft otherwise very very large
|
●
Neat
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Optimator
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead. .2/.3 for the start, 1x .75, 2-3x 1, 4-5x tipped out 2s, 1x 3.
Don’t get a 3 stuck in the roof, it doesn’t fit
|
●
Kitchen Sink
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Optimator
|
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
Nov 11, 2023 · TR. Fingers were fun, then the fists were terrible
|
●
[Redacted]
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Optimator
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad
|
Nov 11, 2023 · Follow. Bat shit makes it slick, but no bats.
Hard 3s in the roof, rounded edge makes it hard to lieback
|
●
Soul Fire
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Optimator
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead. 5-6x 1, 3-4x 2, 1x 3, 1x .75
|
●
Annunaki
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Optimator
|
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead. 1-2x 3, 2x 2, 2-3x 3, 2x .75, 1x .5. Hard to clip the chains
|
●
Dead Crow
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Cat Wall
|
|
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Trad
|
Nov 10, 2023 · Follow. Burly finish. Beautiful jams in the first half and incredibly difficult fist jams right at the chains
Top roped with a very stretchy 80, some shenanigans requirex
|
●
Alley Cat
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Cat Wall
|
|
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
Nov 10, 2023 · Lead. 1x .4-.5, 3x .75, 6-7x 1, 3-4x 2, 2-3x 3, 1x 4, 5 would be nice for me.
Long and very sustained. Very Sandy and insecure in the middle section?
|
●
[Redacted]
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Cat Wall
|
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
Nov 10, 2023 · Follow. Description in MP doesn’t match. We found it was 2s and 3s. 10ish in the book.
|
●
9 Lives
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Cat Wall
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
Nov 10, 2023 · Lead. 4x .75-2, 2x .5, 1x .4
So so good! not anywhere near 11+
|
●
Mini Skirts And Halter Tops
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Long Canyon
> Shady Crag
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Trad 2 pitches
|
Nov 5, 2023 · Lead. 3x .75, 1x 0, .2 for the first pitch
2-3x 2, 1x 3, 4 for the second pitch
Pretty large hands in the roof for me.
|
●
Unnamed
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Long Canyon
> Shady Crag
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
Nov 5, 2023 · Lead. Linked with 1st pitch of mini skirts.
3x 1-2, 1x .75, 3, 4. Could’ve used 2x 4.
Stout
|
●
Mustang Man
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Long Canyon
> Maverick Buttress
|
|
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Trad
|
Nov 4, 2023 · Team send with foster and Mike
|
●
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Long Canyon
> Maverick Buttress
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trad
|
Nov 4, 2023 · Lead. 3x 2, 3-4x .75, 1x 1
|
●
Unnamed 11
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Long Canyon
> Maverick Buttress
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad
|
Nov 4, 2023 · Lead. 3-4x 2, 2x 1, 3x .75, 2x .4, 1x .3,.2,.5
A few runners
|
●
Scarlet Begonias
|
Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Cerberus Gendarme
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
Oct 30, 2023 · TR. Pod was the crux. Not quite fists.
|
●
Fails of Power
|
Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Cerberus Gendarme
|
|
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trad 2 pitches
|
Oct 30, 2023 · Lead. Tough around the roof!
4x 2s 1x 1 for the bottom
3(?)x .75, 2x .5, 1x .3/.4 for the top
|
●
Squeeze Play
|
Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Cerberus Gendarme
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
Oct 30, 2023 · Follow.
|
●
Varco Route
|
Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Mt Moroni
|
|
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Trad 2 pitches
|
Oct 28, 2023 · Lead. One long pitch. Clipping the 1st anchor helps keep the rope out of the crack around the roof
2x .5, 1x .2-.4, 4x .75, 4-5x 1, 1-2x 2, 1x 3
|
●
Voice from the Dust
|
Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Mt Moroni
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad 8 pitches
|
Oct 28, 2023 · 4 pitches. Lead. 3x .75-2, 1x .4-3
|
●
Enter The Dragon
|
Southwest Utah
> …
> Mt Carmel Tunnel
> Kung Fu Theater
|
|
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
Sport 2 pitches
|
Oct 27, 2023 · 1 pitch. Follow. Long moves!
|
●
The Farsen-Larr (extension…
|
Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Confluence
|
|
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Trad
|
Oct 27, 2023 · Follow. 3x .75, 1x .5,1
|
●
The Larsen-Farr
|
Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Confluence
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Trad
|
Oct 27, 2023 · Lead. 4-5x .75-1, 1x 4
|
●
Smashmouth
|
Southwest Utah
> Zion NP
> Confluence
|
|
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Trad 4 pitches
|
Oct 27, 2023 · Lead. 2x .2-2, 4x .3-.5
Linked 3-4, rapped 4-3, 3-1.
Sustained and fun! I felt the crux was the bulges foster thought at the top bolt b/c his fingers are larger
|
●
Owl Crack
|
Southeast Utah
> Indian Creek
> Donnelly Canyon
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
Oct 15, 2023 · TR. Nice warmup
|