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5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 5
Ginzu
Apr 14, 2024 · Follow. .3s were rough for me, .75s were hard for Dan
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 16
Wishbone Suspension
Apr 14, 2024 · Follow.
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 260
Jupiter Crack
Apr 13, 2024 · Follow. Very tall moves at the bottom. Hand traverse there top and rested with leg in the crack and bumped the 5.
Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 64
Scenic Line
Apr 13, 2024 · 5x 1, 2-3x 2, 1x .75
Trad
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 394
Way Rambo
Apr 13, 2024 · Lead. 1x .5, 3x 1-2, 4x .75 (5 for good luck), 2 slings Burly final move.
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 175
Layaway Plan
Apr 13, 2024 · Lead. Jam the roof straight in and layback around the corners and .75s 8x 1s, 1-2 2s, 2x 3s, 2-3x .75, 1x .5, runners
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1,379
Supercrack of the Desert (aka Lu…
Apr 12, 2024 · Lead. bouldery start. 1x .5, 1. 3x 2, definitely more than 5x 3
Trad 3 pitches
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 388
Coyne Crack
Apr 12, 2024 · Lead. 1x .5, 3-4x .75, 6-7x .1, 2x 2 Fewer .75s if you lie back the first bit (recommended)
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 359
Gorilla
Apr 12, 2024 · Lead. 4x 3, 2-3x 2, 2x 4, 1x 5, 1x .5-1
Trad
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Positraction
Nov 12, 2023 · Follow. There’s a crux for everyone!
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 15
Night Nurse
Nov 12, 2023 · Lead. 6x 1, 4x 2, 3x .75, 1x 3-4 Save the 1s for the top!
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 18
Hayutake [direct start]
Nov 11, 2023 · TR. Sweet start! Amazing hands for the last 20 ft otherwise very very large
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 417
Neat
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead. .2/.3 for the start, 1x .75, 2-3x 1, 4-5x tipped out 2s, 1x 3. Don’t get a 3 stuck in the roof, it doesn’t fit
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 51
Kitchen Sink
Nov 11, 2023 · TR. Fingers were fun, then the fists were terrible
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 51
[Redacted]
Nov 11, 2023 · Follow. Bat shit makes it slick, but no bats. Hard 3s in the roof, rounded edge makes it hard to lieback
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 317
Soul Fire
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead. 5-6x 1, 3-4x 2, 1x 3, 1x .75
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 580
Annunaki
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead. 1-2x 3, 2x 2, 2-3x 3, 2x .75, 1x .5. Hard to clip the chains
Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
 48
Dead Crow
Nov 10, 2023 · Follow. Burly finish. Beautiful jams in the first half and incredibly difficult fist jams right at the chains Top roped with a very stretchy 80, some shenanigans requirex
Trad
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 41
Alley Cat
Nov 10, 2023 · Lead. 1x .4-.5, 3x .75, 6-7x 1, 3-4x 2, 2-3x 3, 1x 4, 5 would be nice for me. Long and very sustained. Very Sandy and insecure in the middle section?
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 4
[Redacted]
Nov 10, 2023 · Follow. Description in MP doesn’t match. We found it was 2s and 3s. 10ish in the book.
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 188
9 Lives
Nov 10, 2023 · Lead. 4x .75-2, 2x .5, 1x .4 So so good! not anywhere near 11+
Trad
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 38
Mini Skirts And Halter Tops
Nov 5, 2023 · Lead. 3x .75, 1x 0, .2 for the first pitch 2-3x 2, 1x 3, 4 for the second pitch Pretty large hands in the roof for me.
Trad 2 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Unnamed
Nov 5, 2023 · Lead. Linked with 1st pitch of mini skirts. 3x 1-2, 1x .75, 3, 4. Could’ve used 2x 4. Stout
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 22
Mustang Man
Nov 4, 2023 · Team send with foster and Mike
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 137
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way
Nov 4, 2023 · Lead. 3x 2, 3-4x .75, 1x 1
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Unnamed 11
Nov 4, 2023 · Lead. 3-4x 2, 2x 1, 3x .75, 2x .4, 1x .3,.2,.5 A few runners
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 102
Scarlet Begonias
Oct 30, 2023 · TR. Pod was the crux. Not quite fists.
Trad
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 208
Fails of Power
Oct 30, 2023 · Lead. Tough around the roof! 4x 2s 1x 1 for the bottom 3(?)x .75, 2x .5, 1x .3/.4 for the top
Trad 2 pitches
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 159
Squeeze Play
Oct 30, 2023 · Follow.
Trad
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 7
Varco Route
Oct 28, 2023 · Lead. One long pitch. Clipping the 1st anchor helps keep the rope out of the crack around the roof 2x .5, 1x .2-.4, 4x .75, 4-5x 1, 1-2x 2, 1x 3
Trad 2 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 54
Voice from the Dust
Oct 28, 2023 · 4 pitches. Lead. 3x .75-2, 1x .4-3
Trad 8 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c
 112
Enter The Dragon
Oct 27, 2023 · 1 pitch. Follow. Long moves!
Sport 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 10
The Farsen-Larr (extension to Th…
Oct 27, 2023 · Follow. 3x .75, 1x .5,1
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 28
The Larsen-Farr
Oct 27, 2023 · Lead. 4-5x .75-1, 1x 4
Trad
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 193
Smashmouth
Oct 27, 2023 · Lead. 2x .2-2, 4x .3-.5 Linked 3-4, rapped 4-3, 3-1. Sustained and fun! I felt the crux was the bulges foster thought at the top bolt b/c his fingers are larger
Trad 4 pitches
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 145
Owl Crack
Oct 15, 2023 · TR. Nice warmup
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Ginzu Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo
 5
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Apr 14, 2024 · Follow. .3s were rough for me, .75s were hard for Dan
Wishbone Suspension Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo
 16
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Apr 14, 2024 · Follow.
Jupiter Crack Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Sparks Wall
 260
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Apr 13, 2024 · Follow. Very tall moves at the bottom. Hand traverse there top and rested with leg in the crack and bumped the 5.
Scenic Line Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Sparks Wall
 64
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad
Apr 13, 2024 · 5x 1, 2-3x 2, 1x .75
Way Rambo Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo
 394
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Apr 13, 2024 · Lead. 1x .5, 3x 1-2, 4x .75 (5 for good luck), 2 slings Burly final move.
Layaway Plan Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Way Rambo
 175
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Apr 13, 2024 · Lead. Jam the roof straight in and layback around the corners and .75s 8x 1s, 1-2 2s, 2x 3s, 2-3x .75, 1x .5, runners
Supercrack of the Desert (a… Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
 1,379
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad 3 pitches
Apr 12, 2024 · Lead. bouldery start. 1x .5, 1. 3x 2, definitely more than 5x 3
Coyne Crack Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
 388
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Apr 12, 2024 · Lead. 1x .5, 3-4x .75, 6-7x .1, 2x 2 Fewer .75s if you lie back the first bit (recommended)
Gorilla Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Supercrack Buttress
 359
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Apr 12, 2024 · Lead. 4x 3, 2-3x 2, 2x 4, 1x 5, 1x .5-1
Positraction Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > 3D
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Trad
Nov 12, 2023 · Follow. There’s a crux for everyone!
Night Nurse Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > 3D
 15
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Nov 12, 2023 · Lead. 6x 1, 4x 2, 3x .75, 1x 3-4 Save the 1s for the top!
Hayutake [direct start] Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Optimator
 18
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Nov 11, 2023 · TR. Sweet start! Amazing hands for the last 20 ft otherwise very very large
Neat Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Optimator
 417
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead. .2/.3 for the start, 1x .75, 2-3x 1, 4-5x tipped out 2s, 1x 3. Don’t get a 3 stuck in the roof, it doesn’t fit
Kitchen Sink Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Optimator
 51
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Nov 11, 2023 · TR. Fingers were fun, then the fists were terrible
[Redacted] Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Optimator
 51
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Nov 11, 2023 · Follow. Bat shit makes it slick, but no bats. Hard 3s in the roof, rounded edge makes it hard to lieback
Soul Fire Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Optimator
 317
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead. 5-6x 1, 3-4x 2, 1x 3, 1x .75
Annunaki Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Optimator
 580
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad
Nov 11, 2023 · Lead. 1-2x 3, 2x 2, 2-3x 3, 2x .75, 1x .5. Hard to clip the chains
Dead Crow Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Cat Wall
 48
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 Trad
Nov 10, 2023 · Follow. Burly finish. Beautiful jams in the first half and incredibly difficult fist jams right at the chains Top roped with a very stretchy 80, some shenanigans requirex
Alley Cat Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Cat Wall
 41
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Trad
Nov 10, 2023 · Lead. 1x .4-.5, 3x .75, 6-7x 1, 3-4x 2, 2-3x 3, 1x 4, 5 would be nice for me. Long and very sustained. Very Sandy and insecure in the middle section?
[Redacted] Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Cat Wall
 4
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Nov 10, 2023 · Follow. Description in MP doesn’t match. We found it was 2s and 3s. 10ish in the book.
9 Lives Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Cat Wall
 188
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Nov 10, 2023 · Lead. 4x .75-2, 2x .5, 1x .4 So so good! not anywhere near 11+
Mini Skirts And Halter Tops Southeast Utah > … > Long Canyon > Shady Crag
 38
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Trad 2 pitches
Nov 5, 2023 · Lead. 3x .75, 1x 0, .2 for the first pitch 2-3x 2, 1x 3, 4 for the second pitch Pretty large hands in the roof for me.
Unnamed Southeast Utah > … > Long Canyon > Shady Crag
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Nov 5, 2023 · Lead. Linked with 1st pitch of mini skirts. 3x 1-2, 1x .75, 3, 4. Could’ve used 2x 4. Stout
Mustang Man Southeast Utah > … > Long Canyon > Maverick Buttress
 22
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Trad
Nov 4, 2023 · Team send with foster and Mike
Miss Kitty Likes It That Way Southeast Utah > … > Long Canyon > Maverick Buttress
 137
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad
Nov 4, 2023 · Lead. 3x 2, 3-4x .75, 1x 1
Unnamed 11 Southeast Utah > … > Long Canyon > Maverick Buttress
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad
Nov 4, 2023 · Lead. 3-4x 2, 2x 1, 3x .75, 2x .4, 1x .3,.2,.5 A few runners
Scarlet Begonias Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Cerberus Gendarme
 102
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Oct 30, 2023 · TR. Pod was the crux. Not quite fists.
Fails of Power Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Cerberus Gendarme
 208
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Oct 30, 2023 · Lead. Tough around the roof! 4x 2s 1x 1 for the bottom 3(?)x .75, 2x .5, 1x .3/.4 for the top
Squeeze Play Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Cerberus Gendarme
 159
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Oct 30, 2023 · Follow.
Varco Route Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Mt Moroni
 7
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Trad 2 pitches
Oct 28, 2023 · Lead. One long pitch. Clipping the 1st anchor helps keep the rope out of the crack around the roof 2x .5, 1x .2-.4, 4x .75, 4-5x 1, 1-2x 2, 1x 3
Voice from the Dust Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Mt Moroni
 54
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 8 pitches
Oct 28, 2023 · 4 pitches. Lead. 3x .75-2, 1x .4-3
Enter The Dragon Southwest Utah > … > Mt Carmel Tunnel > Kung Fu Theater
 112
5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c Sport 2 pitches
Oct 27, 2023 · 1 pitch. Follow. Long moves!
The Farsen-Larr (extension… Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Confluence
 10
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Trad
Oct 27, 2023 · Follow. 3x .75, 1x .5,1
The Larsen-Farr Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Confluence
 28
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad
Oct 27, 2023 · Lead. 4-5x .75-1, 1x 4
Smashmouth Southwest Utah > Zion NP > Confluence
 193
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Trad 4 pitches
Oct 27, 2023 · Lead. 2x .2-2, 4x .3-.5 Linked 3-4, rapped 4-3, 3-1. Sustained and fun! I felt the crux was the bulges foster thought at the top bolt b/c his fingers are larger
Owl Crack Southeast Utah > Indian Creek > Donnelly Canyon
 145
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Oct 15, 2023 · TR. Nice warmup
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