Nov 25, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Led the entire chimney today (not an ow lol) and used the anchor for Guilty as Charged to be lowered off to clean. Super fun and not sure why anyone would escape the chimney to face climb on Mullah. Placed a black totem (top of first chimney) and #6 BD (last chimney) on the entire route, but it felt secure the entire way. 5.7- but may feel stiffer for sport climbers
Nov 20, 2021 · Lead / Redpoint. Love this route for the variety and burliness! Followed it about 9 months ago and it scared the crap out of me. Led all three pitches today in good style!
P1, led: Easy, fun climbing up to the chimney. Went with back against left side then switched to right part way up. Used a 5 and 6. Burly!! Once out of the chimney climb an easy crack to a big belay ledge. 5.7+
P2, led: Money pitch! Lieback up a great crack to a rest, then the crack trends up and right. A little more lieback. At the bulge just below the belay ledge the flake was flexing. So good! 5.7
P3, led: Start on a rock pile then move right up a slab to a bolt. Above this you can lieback a bit. Climb goes left around an arete then fun moves with a left foot jam and stemming. Head up through the cave where I placed a piece in the roof to mitigate rope drag. Go through the cave and to the right where there are rapp bolts. Belay from the low crack on far left to mitigate rope drag. Yellow totem and purple BD were bomber.
Decent: Walk to the peak on the northern side by the tree and stay to the ridge to the right of the tree where you’ll find rapp rings.