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5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 1,079
Illusion Dweller
Jan 3, 2024 · Follow. Scampered up it super fast before going with E back to the airport. It's sustained. The gear is good but will be strenuous to place at times. Also the topout is not as scary as it seemed when I first got there (there's a jug up high left, after a move or two). Hope to lead it one day!
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 376
No Calculators Allowed
Jan 3, 2024 · Follow. Mostly easy with one crux move at the top on a tight hand or ringlock.
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 450
Bird on a Wire
Jan 1, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. With Raf. Fun and creative placements on P3. I soloed up P1 and wouldn't do it again. Chicken head belay at the top.
Trad 3 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 807
Touch and Go
Jan 1, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint.
Trad
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 117
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish
Dec 31, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fell a few times at the roof. Turns out there is another positive hold even further right than the first and already pretty-far-right good hold past the roof. That was the way to go for sure.
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 347
Gem
Dec 30, 2023 · Follow. E led!
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 354
Prepackaged
Dec 29, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 385
Mr. Misty Kiss
Dec 29, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+
 107
Black Jack Crack
Nov 12, 2023 · TR. Two clean goes on TR!
Trad, Boulder
V1 5
 8
Moat Crack
Nov 12, 2023 · Send.
Boulder
V0 4
 22
Codswallop
Nov 12, 2023 · Flash.
Boulder
V3 6A
 155
Firestarter
Nov 12, 2023 · Flash. Did it two ways. First, span out far right after the start. Second, pull into R gaston + L crimp, then move to the farther right hold.
Boulder
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 253
Smokestack
Oct 15, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Did OW at the top (left first) which was a bit unexpected but a good time. Mollie and Mac laybacked which looked a lot more smooth.
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 52
Retrospade
Oct 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fun stuff. Fixed tricam.
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 73
High Roller*
Oct 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung.
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 120
Charity Case
Oct 15, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 32
Very Nice Crack
Oct 14, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint.
Trad
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 32
Very Nice Crack
Oct 14, 2023 · TR.
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 13
Prudential Crack
Oct 14, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Trad
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 122
Stoned Temple Pilot
Oct 14, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung.
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 61
El Funko
Oct 14, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 202
Chicken Delight
Oct 1, 2023 · TR.
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 100
Layton's Ascent
Oct 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 218
Nutcracker
Sep 30, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Ooh so good. Even when slippery algae-y. Get back on it! BUT... ngl I'm not sure what the best system is to prevent the rope from getting eaten up by the V notch when lowering or TR belaying from the ground. For TR, probably belay from the top or use some really long static line. For just lead, clean on rap.
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 218
Inferno
Sep 30, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead. Climbed from HTH to start on P3. I linked P3 and P4 into one long pitch but wish I had made that decision earlier. Rope drag was bad and gear was low by the end! Good fun though.
Trad 4 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 191
Hotter Than Hell
Sep 30, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead. Linked up to Inferno
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
The Deep End
Sep 23, 2023 · 3 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung.
Sport 4 pitches
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 3
Snowflake
Sep 23, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. P1 was all bolted except for a single finger ish sized placement.
Trad 2 pitches
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 342
Flying Hawaiian
Sep 17, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The clean finish still evades me. Yeesh. At the topout I still feel rather confused. Like a fish outta water. An L-shaped sofa that just hasn't figured out how to make its way through the doorway yet. Idk. However I did find more efficient beta for the earlier cruxes. For the start, position the feet right to power up to the crimps on the right side early. (Don't get caught up with trying a heel or a toe in the low left side rail, too crunchy for me.) For getting into the dihedral: maybe clip from the flaky crack on the right, but then position yourself more left (directly underneath the triangle fin). Left sidepull(s), foot up, then get into the right undercling. LH up to the triangle fin, reposition feet, then find a great RH sidepull below the fin. Yay! (And remember that it's a foot or two past the fin before the next really incut holds.) .......so, maybe, if I get the rest dialed then I won't be as tired at the topout. ?? maybe? Also thanks E for belay.
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 906
Lonesome Dove
Sep 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Left finish is much more chill.
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 824
Junco
Sep 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint.
Sport
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 844
Metamorphosis
Sep 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint.
Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 950
Armed and Dangerous, and Off My…
Sep 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint.
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 38
Thor's Hammer
Aug 27, 2023 · Lead / Flash. With Av!
Trad, TR
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 387
Pine Tree Eliminate
Aug 24, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. With Av. I pumped out fiddling for too long with a deep cam at one of the first sections where the crack widens. It would've been much easier to just pull through and then place. This was a really fun pitch though and I'd love to try it again!
Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 659
Thin Air
Aug 24, 2023 · Av led all but P1
Trad 4 pitches
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Illusion Dweller Joshua Tree NP > … > Sentinel > Sentinel - W Face
 1,079
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Jan 3, 2024 · Follow. Scampered up it super fast before going with E back to the airport. It's sustained. The gear is good but will be strenuous to place at times. Also the topout is not as scary as it seemed when I first got there (there's a jug up high left, after a move or two). Hope to lead it one day!
No Calculators Allowed Joshua Tree NP > … > Real Hidden Valley > Thin Wall
 376
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Jan 3, 2024 · Follow. Mostly easy with one crux move at the top on a tight hand or ringlock.
Bird on a Wire Joshua Tree NP > … > Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Rig…
 450
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad 3 pitches
Jan 1, 2024 · Lead / Onsight. With Raf. Fun and creative placements on P3. I soloed up P1 and wouldn't do it again. Chicken head belay at the top.
Touch and Go Joshua Tree NP > … > Echo Rock Area > Touch & Go Face
 807
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Jan 1, 2024 · Lead / Redpoint.
Pope's Crack, Direct Finish Joshua Tree NP > … > Echo Rock > Echo Rock - S Face
 117
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad
Dec 31, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fell a few times at the roof. Turns out there is another positive hold even further right than the first and already pretty-far-right good hold past the roof. That was the way to go for sure.
Gem Joshua Tree NP > … > Jumbo Rock Area > Conan's Corridor
 347
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Dec 30, 2023 · Follow. E led!
Prepackaged Joshua Tree NP > … > Hemingway Buttress > Hemingway Buttress (E…
 354
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Dec 29, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Mr. Misty Kiss Joshua Tree NP > … > Dairy Queen Wall > Dairy Queen Wall - Ri…
 385
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Dec 29, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Black Jack Crack Rumney > … > Black Jack Boul… > Black Jack Boulder
 107
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b V2 5+ Trad, Boulder
Nov 12, 2023 · TR. Two clean goes on TR!
Moat Crack Rumney > … > Moat Boulders > Moat Boulder
 8
V1 5 Boulder
Nov 12, 2023 · Send.
Codswallop Rumney > … > Moat Boulders > Moat Boulder
 22
V0 4 Boulder
Nov 12, 2023 · Flash.
Firestarter Rumney > … > Moat Boulders > Moat Boulder
 155
V3 6A Boulder
Nov 12, 2023 · Flash. Did it two ways. First, span out far right after the start. Second, pull into R gaston + L crimp, then move to the farther right hold.
Smokestack Rumney > New Wave
 253
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Oct 15, 2023 · Lead / Onsight. Did OW at the top (left first) which was a bit unexpected but a good time. Mollie and Mac laybacked which looked a lot more smooth.
Retrospade Rumney > New Wave
 52
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Oct 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Fun stuff. Fixed tricam.
High Roller* Rumney > Main Cliff Right
 73
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport 2 pitches
Oct 15, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung.
Charity Case Rumney > Main Cliff Right
 120
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Oct 15, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Very Nice Crack Rumney > Very Nice Crag
 32
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Oct 14, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint.
Very Nice Crack Rumney > Very Nice Crag
 32
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad
Oct 14, 2023 · TR.
Prudential Crack Rumney > Prudential
 13
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Oct 14, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Stoned Temple Pilot Rumney > Prudential
 122
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Oct 14, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung.
El Funko Rumney > Prudential
 61
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Oct 14, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Chicken Delight Cathedral Ledge > Barber Wall
 202
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Oct 1, 2023 · TR.
Layton's Ascent Cathedral Ledge > Barber Wall
 100
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Oct 1, 2023 · Lead / Onsight.
Nutcracker Cathedral Ledge > Barber Wall
 218
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sep 30, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Ooh so good. Even when slippery algae-y. Get back on it! BUT... ngl I'm not sure what the best system is to prevent the rope from getting eaten up by the V notch when lowering or TR belaying from the ground. For TR, probably belay from the top or use some really long static line. For just lead, clean on rap.
Inferno Whitehorse Ledge > 2. S Buttress > Inferno - Atlantis Area
 218
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad 4 pitches
Sep 30, 2023 · 2 pitches. Lead. Climbed from HTH to start on P3. I linked P3 and P4 into one long pitch but wish I had made that decision earlier. Rope drag was bad and gear was low by the end! Good fun though.
Hotter Than Hell Whitehorse Ledge > 2. S Buttress > Inferno - Atlantis Area
 191
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad 2 pitches
Sep 30, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead. Linked up to Inferno
The Deep End 1. Northern Ver… > Smugglers' Notch > Easy Gully Buttress
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport 4 pitches
Sep 23, 2023 · 3 pitches. Lead / Fell/Hung.
Snowflake 1. Northern Ver… > Smugglers' Notch > Easy Gully Buttress
 3
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Sep 23, 2023 · 1 pitch. Lead / Onsight. P1 was all bolted except for a single finger ish sized placement.
Flying Hawaiian Rumney > Waimea
 342
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Sep 17, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. The clean finish still evades me. Yeesh. At the topout I still feel rather confused. Like a fish outta water. An L-shaped sofa that just hasn't figured out how to make its way through the doorway yet. Idk. However I did find more efficient beta for the earlier cruxes. For the start, position the feet right to power up to the crimps on the right side early. (Don't get caught up with trying a heel or a toe in the low left side rail, too crunchy for me.) For getting into the dihedral: maybe clip from the flaky crack on the right, but then position yourself more left (directly underneath the triangle fin). Left sidepull(s), foot up, then get into the right undercling. LH up to the triangle fin, reposition feet, then find a great RH sidepull below the fin. Yay! (And remember that it's a foot or two past the fin before the next really incut holds.) .......so, maybe, if I get the rest dialed then I won't be as tired at the topout. ?? maybe? Also thanks E for belay.
Lonesome Dove Rumney > Jimmy Cliff
 906
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Sep 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint. Left finish is much more chill.
Junco Rumney > Jimmy Cliff
 824
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sep 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint.
Metamorphosis Rumney > Armed & Dangerous (Ma…
 844
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Sep 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint.
Armed and Dangerous, and Of… Rumney > Armed & Dangerous (Ma…
 950
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sep 16, 2023 · Lead / Redpoint.
Thor's Hammer Central Valley > E Peak > Merimere Face
 38
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad, TR
Aug 27, 2023 · Lead / Flash. With Av!
Pine Tree Eliminate Cathedral Ledge > Airation Buttress
 387
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Aug 24, 2023 · Lead / Fell/Hung. With Av. I pumped out fiddling for too long with a deep cam at one of the first sections where the crack widens. It would've been much easier to just pull through and then place. This was a really fun pitch though and I'd love to try it again!
Thin Air Cathedral Ledge > Thin Air Face
 659
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad 4 pitches
Aug 24, 2023 · Av led all but P1
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