| Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
|
●
Medicinal Man
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
1
> Echo Canyon - S…
> Indian Buttress Forma…
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad, Alpine 4 pitches
|
|
Jun 6, 2026 · TR. Rappelled into last pitch and did it via TR with Cliff. Man this last pitch bolt line felt bleak. We both agreed it felt in the 11 range. Lot of thin moves being covered in litchen/moss doesn’t inspire confidence.
|
|
●
Indian Summer
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
1
> Echo Canyon - S…
> Indian Buttress Forma…
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
|
|
Jun 6, 2026 · 4 pitches. Lead. P1: (5.7)follow broken crack systems through some bushes to some light slab climbing. Eventually up to a big mountain mahogany. 100’
P2: (5.8) go slightly left from tree and sail away on amazing crack to bolted anchor. Needed sizes to #4. 80’
P3: (510+ to -5.11) follow broken crack system along a small right facing dihedral up through a constricted area. The whole pitch is about 5.8 to 5.9 till you get to an ultra thin crack above a small roof. Make one or two hard moves (5.10+) to get over the roof and then continue left to finish the pitch at anchor bolts. An alternate to going over the roof is to go out left at the roof using underclings (about 12’) then continue up a vertical easy crack to finish. This alternate way is about 10a. 130’
P4: (5.8 PG13) easy climbing gets you to the corner, but then requires one or two hard 5.9 move to get up and right. Spicy because all you get are some ultra tiny placements. Eventually you get up the crux to eventually start the traverse (protected by 2 bolts) to the right and up. Leads right to rap station. 80’
Notes: glad we pitched it out. On pitch 2 I would skip the bolted belay and get higher up even though it’ll be a hanging belay. It’ll make it easier for the person leading P3.
Gear: doubles to 4 especially any micro-cams like Z4s
|
|
●
Potash Bong Hit
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trad
|
|
May 29, 2026 · Very fun. Crux was getting out of the wbeginning of the flake which can be accomplished by a few face moves. This will lead to a good stance which gives you a break before you journey right and up to the anchors. Needs a lot of #3, some 4s and two-ish 5s
|
|
●
Lucy in the Sky with Potash
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
May 25, 2026 · TR. Pretty difficult. Easy start leads to one blank section. At the blank section you have to work your feet up so you can get to the ok jam. Used left face hold and also right Arete. Up top requires a large pinch with right hand and a small slipper with left to get to top
|
|
●
Sticky Fingers
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Kane Springs Ca…
> Ice Cream Parlor
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
May 25, 2026 · TR. Used anchors from 5.6 corner crack. Super fun climb. X2 cruxes. 1st is getting into the climb and the last is getting past the second to last bolt by doing fragile moves to a sloping mantle.
|
|
●
5.6 Corner
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Kane Springs Ca…
> Ice Cream Parlor
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
May 25, 2026 · Lead. Only did pitch 1 to chains. It was easy hands to tight hands. Only used a single rack and most placements were black to red totem. Crux was pulling the mid mantle. Very easy to protect. Would say it felt like a tahquitz 5.6
|
|
●
Stego Crack
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
|
21
|
|
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Trad
|
|
May 24, 2026 · Lead. Used some small yellow totems and smaller. Only need two pieces of pro. Start was tricky but finally found out you come from the right and pull into the crack. Up top you gotta use some left side pulls to get up higher
|
|
●
Little Tufa's
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
|
|
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad
|
|
May 23, 2026 · Follow. Looks like the crux is pulling the roof. To do this you’ll move up and eventually get a jug on the left hand side high. From there you’ll get the right hand and b the slopes to the right and then pull to the using a heel hook. After that you’ll be through the roof into the small offwidth section. I think the grade is spot on.
|
|
●
Lacto Mangulation
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
|
|
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Trad, TR
|
|
May 23, 2026 · Follow. Pretty easy and super well protected. One hard move for the ending is where it probably gets the grade. Need a few larger cams for the top
|
|
●
Ananab
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
May 23, 2026 · Lead. Work from right of bolt to left of first bolt. Once to the left, you can clip first bolt which will be on your right. Keep up and left. A little foot matching occurs to the second bolt. Once you get second bolt you start working toward the wayco on the right. You still will be left of the bolts but this is where you start going to the right of the bolt line and up. Felt comparable to the climbing around here.
|
|
●
Brown Banana
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport
|
|
May 23, 2026 · Lead. So it was easier once you find the right moves. Crux was between bolts 1-2 and that was about 5.8.
How to: Start to the right of the bolt line under the white streak, work over left till you are under bolt line. From bolt 1 work out right then back over left to clip bolt 2. The rest of the line is kinda like this.
|
|
●
Grama and the Green Suede S…
|
Southeast Utah
> …
> Potash Rd
> Wall Street
|
|
130
|
|
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Trad
|
|
May 23, 2026 · Lead. Black and yellow totems and #4 and - 5. Very easy. Little offwidthy. Maybe 5.4.
|
|
●
5.10 Face
|
San Diego County
> …
> Mt Woodson
> Hamburger Crack Area
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
May 21, 2026 · Lead. Absolutely fun route. Def some harder slab y moves towards the top.
|
|
●
Karmic Relief
|
San Diego County
> …
1
> Middle Earth
> Middle of Middle Earth
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
May 17, 2026 · Lead. Tape right pinky. You’ll thank me later when you get the finger jamb just above the dyno start
|
|
●
Karmic Relief
|
San Diego County
> …
1
> Middle Earth
> Middle of Middle Earth
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sport
|
|
May 17, 2026
|
|
●
Caradhras
|
San Diego County
> …
1
> Middle Earth
> Middle of Middle Earth
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad
|
|
May 17, 2026 · Climb into the cave and sink your right body in, then get your first piece of pro and short clip it. Then work your body around so that your left hand is in a jamb in the cave and get a piece of pro above your head. Now you can extend the first piece of pro you originally got. Now that the left body is in the cave, work your left foot higher and work your right hand onto the right face and step into a small foothold. Then work right hand up higher and around the right side of the climb for a good hand. Now work left hand into the finger crack and transition to the left side of the climb. Finger to small hands gains the rest of the climb. Recommend triples of black to yellow totems.
|
|
●
Risky Business
|
San Diego County
> …
1
> Middle Earth
> Middle of Middle Earth
|
|
21
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad, Sport
|
|
May 17, 2026 · Lead. Placed a blue totem at the base to stop the next two pieces from zippering. Protected the climb with two small and well seated nuts before getting first bolt. Both nuts were bomber and pretty easy to get.
|
|
●
Vermont
|
San Diego County
> …
1
> Middle Earth
> Secret Crag
|
|
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Trad, TR
|
|
May 3, 2026 · Took a small totem and nut down low. Then fired a z4 red just above the double undercling. Hard to protect the crux which made me feel not good about moving up. Felt hard for the grade.
|
|
●
Echo Location
|
San Diego County
> …
1
> Middle Earth
> Secret Crag
|
|
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trad, TR
|
|
May 3, 2026 · Used yellow and black totem at the start. Got right hand out on right face. Then dynoed up to the horizontal crack on right side. Takes red totem. Then above in the crack used a green totem. Hard and fun.
|
|
●
Ring My Bell
|
San Diego County
> …
1
> Middle Earth
> Secret Crag
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad, TR
|
|
May 3, 2026 · Lead. Yellow to #3 totem. Super fun lead. Excellent warmup for the harder routes. Two bolts with chains.
|
|
●
Aqualunge
|
San Diego County
> …
1
> Limbo Area
> Aqualunge
|
|
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sport
|
|
Feb 28, 2026 · Just below the first bolt, Dyno right hand out to a L shaped hold. Match grip and work feet up on the left and right. Slap the right hand on the rail and get a crimp 11 o clock of bolt. Standup on right foot and get the left hand up high on the rail (positive hold). The get the left foot on a crimp
Above second bolt you will start working up little crimps
|
|
●
Tan Man Corner
|
San Diego County
> …
> Eagle Peak
> Tan Man Tower
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport
|
|
Jan 12, 2026 · TR. Really want to lead this. East face climbing gets you to the enduro layback for 5’. Then at the top you get a right hand jam and push back against wall to get up a little higher. Then from there it’s easy moves out left to chains.
|
|
●
Cruise Line
|
San Diego County
> …
> Eagle Peak
> Left Wall
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sport 5 pitches
|
|
Jan 12, 2026 · Lead. P1: lead and wasn’t too bad. Followed bolts to first set of anchors which is up and left
P2 cliff lead. Long delicate traverse. Sometimes you had to go up above the bolts to make the moves which felt awkward. Went further right than I expected. After the traverse, you climb up for another two or three bolts to get to the anchor. Felt harder than 5.9 for some of the moves
P3: I led. Stood up in the anchor and clipped the first bolt before starting. Starter by going up and left of first bolt; there is a big ledge to step on out left. then came back right to get the second bolt. After that it was 5.8 to next anchor which was like only 30 feet away.
P4: Cliff led: east climbing in the dihedral. Then out right for the crux of the climb. The traverse felt super hard. We went under the bolts, but think next time I want to try getting right under the roof. After the roof you still have to make your way up and right for about 6 more bolts on delicate edges.
P5: I led. Super easy and straight forward going into the dihedral all the way up. Felt much easier than 10B. Very fun stemming and using holds on both sides of dihedral. Bolts were 20’ back of edge.
|
|
●
Golden Idol
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
1
> Echo Canyon - N…
> Key Hole Tower
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
|
|
Nov 2, 2025 · Follow. Leaders with Cliff R. We did a link up of Crystal Skull for P1 and Cliff lead Golden Idol P2.
P1: followed dihedral to the flake, and took the flake out left and up. When I reached the dead tree, I placed a piece of gear, moved down the ramp and left till I gain the first bolt and clipped it. Once the first boat was clipped, I went back up the ramp to clear that piece of pro up by the dead tree. Committing from the first to the second bolt took some moxie. The only way to get the second bolt is to get your hands, actually above it to be secure enough to clip it. After that, it’s smooth sailing to the 2 bolt anchor. Felt like the moves for the first two bolts were 10b
P2: worked back and forth in the chimney to get higher up in the dihedral. After you get over the overhang of the dihedral, it is a fun romp. Felt like moves were 10a.
|
|
●
Crystal Skull
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
1
> Echo Canyon - N…
> Key Hole Tower
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
TR, Alpine
|
|
Nov 1, 2025 · Lead. Lead with Cliff R. We did a link up of Crystal Skull for P1 and Cliff lead Golden Idol P2.
P1: followed dihedral to the flake, and took the flake out left and up. When I reached the dead tree, I placed a piece of gear, moved down the ramp and left till I gain the first bolt and clipped it. Once the first boat was clipped, I went back up the ramp to clear that piece of pro up by the dead tree. Committing from the first to the second bolt took some moxie. The only way to get the second bolt is to get your hands, actually above it to be secure enough to clip it. After that, it’s smooth sailing to the 2 bolt anchor. Felt like the moves for the first two bolts were 10b
P2: worked back and forth in the chimney to get higher up in the dihedral. After you get over the overhang of the dihedral, it is a fun romp. Felt like moves were 10a.
|
|
●
Hondo Hedral
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> Others
> Hondo Buttress
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad, Alpine
|
|
Nov 1, 2025 · Lead. Got pumped early on it. But thankfully a Z4 green held my fall. Summoned my strength back and then got the #3 and pushed up. Got a red cam after the chockstone. I should have extended it and it ended up creating a fuck ton of rope drag. From there, I got the two bolts on the head wall to the anchor.
|
|
●
Madison
|
San Diego County
> …
1
> Limbo Area
> Deviate Wall
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport, TR
|
|
Sep 28, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Led it on a whim with Brea. Got to the third bolt and fell a few times. Pulling the crux after clipping the third bolt is 100 percent commitment and it felt like powerful moves. When I would fall, I would swing harshly back into the area where the bolts were. Ended up setting up a TR and doing it that way.
Would love to see someone do it the way the route setter intended, cause I think I’m missing something.
|
|
●
Release the Crackin
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
> Hinterland
> Hinterland Corridor
|
|
1
|
|
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
|
|
Sep 16, 2025 · Follow. Gary led P1 and Cliff led P2.
P1: this felt stiff compared to the grading of climbs next to it. The roof was thin, but finally figured out that I needed to layback the right side. But pulling the roof was definitely delicate. The climbing after that was thin slab climbing to the top.
P2: would have been nice to have a bolt to the right of the belay anchors so the lead climber doesn’t have to worry about getting gear below the anchors. The crack in the beginning could use a cleaning. The climbing after was exposed at the top but there was good holds.
Overall it was a good climb. It is harder than it may appear at first glance.
|
|
●
Uber
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
> Hinterland
> Hinterland Corridor
|
|
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Trad, Alpine 3 pitches
|
|
Sep 16, 2025 · Lead. Just before wrapping the day up we decided to do P1. I lead it with Gary Belaying. It’s rated 5.9 but it felt like it was two 5.9 moves, but the rest of pitch was 5.6 or 5.7. Protected the crux roof pretty easy with a black totem. Wasn’t that bad. Then trudge your way up to an amazing splitter crack that really liked Red and Yellow Totems. Can’t wait to send the rest of the route.
|
|
●
Deadwood
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
> Hinterland
> Hinterland Corridor
|
|
1
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad, Alpine
|
|
Sep 13, 2025 · Lead / Fell/Hung. Laced it up. Brought doubles up to 4 and also brought a 5. Needed most of it, but prolly could have gotten away with one #4. It all goes fine till you get to the second off width. This is where I felt the crux was and it ended up pumping me out. Ended up falling out (onto purple totem on left back) just at the top of the second off width. From there I grunted up and to the top.
|
|
●
Break the Silence
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
> Hinterland
> Hinterland Corridor
|
|
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Trad, Alpine
|
|
Sep 13, 2025 · Follow. Followed Cliff and Gary up this one. Def a physical climb but it easily protects. Start on a flat ledge and work up it. Then traverse right and make delicate move down. Then get up into the crack above. Kept right body in the crack until it widens out, then switched to left body in and eventually worked up and right.
|
|
●
Autopia
|
Tahquitz & Suic…
> …
> Hinterland
> Hinterland Corridor
|
|
2
|
|
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sport, Alpine
|
|
Sep 13, 2025 · Lead. Fun and well protected. Crux is about the 4th bolt. 2 bolt anchor at top with gear on it for rappel
|
|
●
Rhododendron
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a2. The Uberfall - right
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad
|
|
Sep 9, 2025 · Lead. Best climb I did in the gunks. It was such a fun and easy romp. Reminded me of home. 60m rope. Only used nuts as well as doubles of: black, blue, yellow totem and #3s.
|
|
●
Double Chin
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> a1. The Uberfall - left
|
|
5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Trad
|
|
Sep 9, 2025 · Follow. Followed Eric. Best climb so far. Felt on brand with the grades this far. Hands galore. Placements galore. The last roof ends on a perfect hand crack on the left wall which brings you over roof to a bolted anchor. Doubles to #3.
|
|
●
Minty
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> f. The Guides' Wall
|
|
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Sep 8, 2025 · Lead. Went easy. Went up and then eventually right to the dihedral. Followed the dihedral about 10’ then worked left around the corner. From there, you work up and then a little right, then left to the tree to end P1. From there you’ll click a draw to a piton then go up the dihedral. You’ll be tempted to go out left but wait till you are about 20’ up. Then you stay on the face and go straight up. There will be other pitons along the way. When you hit the massive ledge, you can pitch it out here or head straight up the right dihedral to the top. Rappel out is 100 to the left.
|
|
●
Madame Grunnebaum's Wulst
|
Gunks
> Trapps
> f. The Guides' Wall
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad 3 pitches
|
|
Sep 7, 2025 · 2 pitches. Lead. Did 3 teams of 2. Lead all of it. Would have been nice to have a bullet bag and wind breaker.
For P1 we got right underneath the P1 tree belay and face climbed up about 30-40’.
P2: keep working right to the dihedral, at the top of the small spire, where it starts getting steep and overhung, traverse right and up all the horizontal cracks. We opted not to belay here but rather combined P2 and P3 so there was no hanging belay. This is where you begin the multiple roofs. Don’t be intimidated by the overhangs because you have big jugs and decent feet. Even though I couldn’t see it from below, there was always a good stance every 15-20’ where you could place gear and relax for a sec. I think there was about 2-3 small roofs to overcome. Adter the last roof, head up and left and Then head up and right to top out. Plenty of places to build an anchor.
Rap station is next to the big tree and is almost entirely a free space rappel. You can make it in one rappel with a full length 70m rope rappel. Obviously you’ll need x2 70s to do this.
|
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
RSS Feed of Ticks
