Jun 15, 2021 · Follow. Matt led the first half then ventured over to the anchors on Retribution/Nosedive. I followed to clean gear and set directionals to TR the 5.10 climbs, but then the thunderstorm began so I just rappelled off instead.
Jun 15, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Led as one pitch all the way to the top. Would have probably lowered off the chained-together pitons with the 70m and belayed Matt from the ground if I had thought of that. Great climbing, with a good variety of style and consistency of difficulty. Bottom felt a little run-out and had a few tricky sections. Tricams came in handy. Namely a big black one (#3) in a pod ~30 ft. up and the blue and brown equalized in a horizontal and extended 80cm from the small ledge before the steep climbing. Got a little pumped placing a #1 in the middle of the steeps, but held it together. I did not place anything larger than that #1, but I am sure there would be a place for a 2 or 3 in the steep horizontals. In the future I would bring a single rack with doubles from .4-.75, all tricams from pink to #3, small/med nuts only (I only placed one nut that I back-cleaned after getting the #3 tricam in). Classic!
Jun 8, 2021 · Lead / Flash. Warm up on day 2. Was told to take a #2, but would have liked a 3 or even 4 for the wide fist crack at the top. Opening crux will wake you up but did not feel too bad.
I may have climbed this in 2008/9? I remember the polished foot hold at the start, maybe we just walked by. A couple climbers soloed it the night before on 6/7 while I was climbing Rhododendron.
Jun 7, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Cool funky route. Bring a couple double length slings for protecting under the roofs (~10 ft. below them in the corner, one had a piton and the other took a large nut, BD #13 sideways, maybe a DMM #10 or #11). Bottom roof looks intimidating but is an easy step-around. Upper roof is all kinds of funk with big disjointed flakes.
Jun 7, 2021 · Lead / Onsight. Matt led the first pitch(es) and I took over at the tree 30' left of the ceiling. Downclimb slightly and traverse over to the two pitons under the roof. equalized and extended them then pulled the move using the horn projecting farthest from the wall. Ran out most of the easy corner then protected it near the end before passing around the next roof and making my way to the top. Over to the rappel and then the urgent care to have Matt's burn looked at (hot tea incident a few days before).